This shot looks like when I felt I had a million more welds to clean!!!! What do I do now????
Wow cannot wait to see the finished project!!!. It looks like you have been very busy.It`s an exciting time when the shop starts to fill up with work, You must be close to finishing now. Will they be sent for galvanizing?
That's a great picture. Nothings looks better than a girl with a torch (or welder)! I hope you send pictures of the railing in place.
I've never galvanized my work before....I only recently had a client call me about some erosion. I guess this is something for future pieces. I think it will be costly here in N.Y., but I might be wrong. Since I've taken a page in the GUild Resource book this year ,I think i will need this process for higher profile outdoor railings. Another thing to contend with! Janet R.
Janet,firt of all,VERY IMPRESSIVE RAIL! I put together alot of rail here in oregon. And I mean"Put together." Buy componets,weld together,apply finnish, send it out.Your rail looks hand forged,alot of it anyway.Your baaad to the bone!Back to subject.Rains alot here and no matter how careful you are, when you powder coat and put her in the oven, air will expand in the tubes and,waalaa, a pinhole, maybe 2 or 3. You don't see it until a year later.Easy fix, but bad PR. WE have very serious tree huging type folks here so the cost of galvanize more often than not, costs as much as the steel for the job. It does work though. You still have pressure buildup in the tubes, but the hot dip guys are savvy and dip her fast. Some big jobs, folks want tubes knotched for gal inside and out. Using solid stock cures your powder coat problem "if you are a VERY good welder." Bottom line, spell it out for the customer. Hollow tube, powder coat,no call backs, $1000. same, with call back, $2000. Solid stock, powder coat,$2000. Hollow tube, galvanize,powder coat,$2000. I always try to talk them into using aluminum. The best Solution,for the fabracator and the costomer, although now the bill is $4000. SO easy for you. 6061, heat it, throw it in a tub of water, and it turns into putty. DO all your scrolling cold,welds easy,and more componets being offered these days. The added bonus of strapping the finnished product on the back of your Geo to deliver to the job site. A kodak moment. Have fun,Jay.
Yes Janet,I agree you look impacting with the torch and outfit on. Everybody wants to see those rails fly.Very nice. If a client pays me well I consider sand blasting work and industrial protection coat on,prior to final patina.And artwork is very nice and enjoyable (hardly ever to me) when the budget allows to hire help, and one just assembles and directs to fine work and details, but this is only the ideal condition everyone likes,and not necessarily what usually happens. Best luck to you Janet. nelson.
Sounds like you need to hire some apprentices to help with the cleaning and finish work. There is only so much time in a day and with large commissions more hands means easier work and don't forget the extra pair of hands come with an extra pair of eyes. Oh yes and the liability and compensation...... learning curb.... insurance.... Oh well.
You've got a great deal of work in all that, how many feet of it are there? It looks great! I always love railings when they are all cleaned up and silvery.
Is it going inside or out? How did you lay it out, floor or table?? How big is your layout table. Ours is 6 x 10ft of 1/2in steel but it has such a great bow to it I have to block up when I'm assembling. Our floor is also not exactly flat either so not having a level surface anywhere drives me nuts! However we are hoping to move shop in the next year or so, so I'm already thinking about ways to improve our set up. Any good suggestions for big layout tables out there?
large flat surfaces are great for marking out and assembly but for gates,railings or any piece that is flat or in the same plane, consider a vertical frame for welding up. A heavy box section or H-beam about 20" above the ground (a comfortable height) and about 8feet long is a good datum with a vertical post welded dead plumb to clamp your uprights to for welding. Attach some wheels and you can move it out the way as reqd. You can move around it for welding both sides as well, it doesn't matter if your floor is not level as you are working inside the upright and base which are at right angles to each other, either clamp or bolt your work for welding and check your diagonals are equal to keep it all square.Of course its not much good for curvilinear items.
Hi Janet, The railing looks great and it looks like there is a lot of it. I remember seeing your concept drawing when we come up to visite and the final design far out shines the drawings.
.Hi Lynda,Thanks for your comments as i consider you an iron maiden extrodernaire!!! We laid the larger frames on the floor , but my floor isn't quite even. So someone has to hold parts down while I weld. My table is about 10x4' and heavy guage but it too has bowed in spots over the years. My favorite surface is a huge door panel ,thick???
which I love welding on as nothing moves and it's perfectly flat! (my choice) But my husband really doesn't like me welding on it. We built another rolling large table which somehow is never in my part of the studio!
These are outdoor railings. They will be primed and painted with rust inhibited products. But this is my dilemna ...next outdoor job I have to find out about galvanizing? Do you galvanize your outdoor work?
Good luck with the new studio.We are constantly tweeking ours.
Thanks Jake.....sometimes my drawings are thrown together
usually last minute but when I start working it falls into place. The whole job is 57 linear feet. Janet R.
Wow, can't wait to see it finished. Wait! someone already said that :-)