Help with a forged pattern

|
Help with a forged pattern

Hi people
Havent been on for a while, the army near us appears to be changing all their fire escapes which is great for the bank balance. Not so good for creative endeavours! Have spent the last 2 hours going through all the postings weve missed, wow you guys have really produced some stunning and inspirational stuff. JR, your beautiful dancers have inspired me to have a go at a panther, I love the colour and texture on your sculpture. Andy is working on a bike tank for the Earls Court custom bike show with a hammered steel male torso in the tank. Will post pictures. Anyway thanks for sharing, really pleased to have found this site.
We would like to know how to produce the pattern in the picture if anyone knows. Weve got some decorative security and a pair of wedding candlesticks for a castle wedding and would like to use it in both but are not sure how to do it? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Kindest regards
Michelle and Andy


mele miller's picture

You just alternate the

You just alternate the twists, one left-one right. In square stack most likely.
Mele


Bill Roberts's picture

yup......it's created by a

yup......it's created by a series of "localized heats". Say 2-3" at a time, and you just reverse the twist at each heat. I do it with a rosebud torch. It can be done with square or six sided material with beautiful results. The more even your localized heats....the more even your twists.

I even did it with round material.........the surface pattern on rebar....looked very unique. :)

 twisted rebardecorative Twists: twisted rebar

bill


SteelyJan's picture

I just bought a rosebud torch!!!

Thanks Bill for the information. Just bought a rosebud torch so I can bend my handrail capping, I can't wait to play with it. Janet R.


mele miller's picture

Awsome!! I never thought of

Awsome!! I never thought of doing it with rebar. Tomorrow...I'm on it.
Thanks, Mele


topps35's picture

wave twist

Thanks for that Bill. Love the rebar got lots of that lying around in all sorts of different sizes. Like you we seem to be banging our heads on metal design. Wiltshire in England is bowtop crazy. We hate the stuff, but planning puts it on new housing estates and then refuses other styles because its not inkeeping with the local area!! Often centuries old villages etc. Still we think weve sold the wave design to our customer as she wants something simple but stunning.
Kindest regards and thanks for your input
Michelle and Andy


Jim Cotter's picture

now we need someone to post

now we need someone to post how to make a twister machine...


Adrian Wood's picture

twister machine

i have a twisting machine that i will photograph tomorrow, it is only a simple hand turning twister but it is quite controllable, i will get it posted.
Adrian


visitor's picture

Picket Twister

Three methods. Gear head lathe, pipe threader,or large gear reducer. Start with a chunk of rd. bar, 2.5" long,2-2.5"O.D. Bore a .5" hole in center in lathe. Or whatever size picket you want to twist. I have 7/16,1/2,5/8, and 3/4. Take chunk from lathe to milling machine. Mill slot so that drilled hole disapears. Carefully finnish work end with file and sandpaper. Grip in lathe or pipe threading machine. For use in the lathe, you must make a stand that clamps to the ways, with a slot in the top to hold the bar. This must line up very well with the center of the chuck. Pipe threader must be clamped or bolted to bench top. Work is held by a vice clamped to the bench on sufficient spacers. To use a gear reducer, it must have a high numerical reduction, or be driven by reducing sprocket or pulley set up. The 2.5" long chunk must be 4" long or more and first be bored and keyed to go on output shaft of gear-reducer. Presently I am building a twister to do 1.25" square steel, cold. John Christiansen


Rich Waugh's picture

I scrounged an old Rigid

I scrounged an old Rigid pipe threader, and it works a treat for bar up to 3/4" cold, and much bigger hot. The three-jaw chuck is not handy for holding square, but it is easy to make inserts from either 5C square collets (for small stock up to about 3/4") or fabricate larger ones from scrap. If you have a milling machine, you can make spiffy ones with square holes and hex perimeter. Alternately, you can get some really large hex nuts and scab in some welds inside the round hole to make it a square. The three-jaw chuck holds the hex nuts perfectly.

For the tailstock, I just clamp the threader to a piece of scrap wide-flange I-beam and scab together a holder fork that can be clamped wherever I want it. You can get fancy and make the tailstock slide to accomodate shortening when you twist really long sections, but I've never found the need.

One note about homemade twisters:

Pipe threaders, lathes, gear reduction units, etc, all will have some greater or lesser degree of "overrun" on the twisting when you shut off the power. It's pretty much inherent in any geared-down device; the momentum keeps it turning for another half or more revolution. Since this isn't always consistent, due to variables in hardness of the stock, heat levels, etc, it's a good idea to plan for some variation. If you can't tolerate a bit of uncertainty, then you need to build in a way to stop the machine on a dime.

Fancy twisters like the German machines will twist stock in any increment of a degree or so of twist, from what I hear. They also cost big bucks. For the small shop, you can put a brake on the twister head, create an automatic stop that drops in after X number of revolutions, or something similar. For myself, when the number of turnsis critical, I try to twist them cold and stop a bit short of the final number and finish turning the machine by hand with a big bar.


Stephen Fitz-Gerald's picture

Stephen Fitz-Gerald Dear

Stephen Fitz-Gerald

Dear Michelle and Andy,
this pattern is indeed done by alternate twists in SQUARESTOCK.Here's a Celtic door Knocker (in stainless)I've made utilizing the same pattern and technique,only instead of a roesbud I use the CUTTING head of my torch.I've found 1/2 inch material works quite well to feature the pattern.
http://ou8nrtist2.deviantart.com/art/Another-Celtic-Door-Knocker-124301266
and
http://ou8nrtist2.deviantart.com/art/Ring-Pulls-39955349

It gives a more localized heat and allows me to control the twists a bit better. But here I will stress,each to his own...The dimension of material will also designate how big a torch head you use. I've made a windlass style machine that gives me extra leverage for twisting 1"diameter SQUARE TUBING. It collapses in the most wonderful way...
http://ou8nrtist2.deviantart.com/art/Tasting-Room-Door-detail-90680358
Even something as delicate as chopsticks or flatware in stainless can be accomplished using very small torch heads. Remember with stainless never to heat it TOO MUCH because it destroys the material.
http://ou8nrtist2.deviantart.com/art/Stainless-Steel-Chopsticks-40145177
and
http://ou8nrtist2.deviantart.com/art/Forged-Flatwear-39917302
And because it's such a lovely and ancient pattern it lends itself well to jewelry. It was a CELTIC invention.
http://ou8nrtist2.deviantart.com/art/Celtic-Buckle-twisted-motif-74247048
and
http://ou8nrtist2.deviantart.com/art/Torc-Celtic-neckring-63471126
or even finger rings:
http://ou8nrtist2.deviantart.com/art/Stainless-Steel-Rings-69692870


Stephen Fitz-Gerald's picture

Twist Pattern

Stephen Fitz-Gerald

Just got my website upgraded and remembered this piece:
http://www.sfitzgeraldfineart.com/vessels-vases-bowls/
It's a ritual bowl and frame utilizing the same pattern for holy water. The frame is actually FORGED STAINLESS STEEL with a true acid patina making it appear bronze...