Architectural:
Newel Posts

b y :     e n r i q u e

Base for downstairs newel post

"A newel post is the most distinctive part of a staircase. It should be designed and crafted in such a way as to be visually appealing, inviting, and structurally support the stairail."

Welded newel post base for upstairs landing

Just as hand forging welds can create natural transitional effects, so too can modern welding techniques such as the stick welding ( SMAW - shielded metal arc welding ) I used to simulate a 2" thick solid piece of steel at the base for the newel post.

The newel post base for the downstairs railing shows a cluster of cattails with tapered angle iron grass blades welded to it. To give body to the base I welded a textured 2" x 1" bar to a 3/8" thick plate steel. This gives the illusion of a solid piece of plate material and allows for a natural texture to be applied to the edge of the base.

Stick welding or shielded metal arc welding is done with a "Airco Mini Arc 130" machine which runs off of 110 volt. I also use this welding machine for TIG - tungsten inert gas welding and have found it quite suitable for much of the electric welding that I do. The beauty of this machine is that I can take it on the job and use it for installations without having to carry the bulky leads and gas driven welding machines that are commonly found on job sites.

After applying forged texture to the side bar with the same dies that I used for making the water texture scene in the dragonfly railings, the cut steel plate is tack welded every six inches. This helps keep the base from warping. I then applied fillet welds that are approximately six inches long.

Note: The welding is staggered to help relieve weld strains which can warp the base.

Detail of textured newel post base joined to steel plate with E-7018 stick welding.

Finished grinding of base

Once the seam is completely welded, the top plate is ground down to remove all traces of the weld and is then reheated in the gas forge not only to relieve stress but, more importantly, to add the scale and natural gray color back to the steel. The base is clamped to a flat work surface and allowed to air cool.

The finishing is done with a 4" grinder and a knotted wire wheel brush. This is the only way I have found to remove the scale and still leave a burnished finish.

After welding all the components to the base, a natural linseed oil finish is applied and allowed to dry. I use this finish on many of the interior forged iron works which I produce and have had much success with its permanence and translucency.

• Digital Design - Introduction
• 1st Floor Railing - cattail newel post
• 2nd Floor Railing - perspective
  • Scaled Elevation view
• Dragonfly Split Level Railing
  • Tracing perspective
  • Creating Scaled Elevation
  • Skewing for perspective
• Outputting Scaled Drawings
  • Image Transfer

• Forged Texture Reflections
  • 25 lb. Little Giant Demo
• Silver soldering cattails
• Applying Verde patina for color
• Metamorphosis of an Iron Dragonfly
• Yin and Yang of twisting wrought iron
• Forge welding for natural form
• Basis for a distinctive newel post

• Installed railings

"What I really like about this type of finish, is that the oil doesn't disguise or cover up the natural textures which have been created by the hand forging operations."

Contact:

E. Vega Studios

p h o n e : 9 1 9 - 3 6 7 - 7 2 3 3

apex, north carolina

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last refreshed Tue, Oct 27, 1998
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