I would think you're correct in your assessment of the dry rot issue. Take the assembly to your local welding supply and have it all checked out to make sure the torch seals were not damaged by the flame and get a new hose assembly. Once the welding shop approves it, you should be good to go.
As far as checking for dry rot in the inner liner of the hose, about the only way is to give it a pressure test periodically using compressed air at about double the pressure you normally run the hose at. That way, if there's a weak area it will give way with a non-flammable gas (air) and no burns. The real test is a "leak-down" test, performed by pressurizing the hose with a gauge in the line and plugging it off. The pressure is checked after 24 hours to determine if any minute leakage occurs. That's probably not necessary 0 the hose is cheap enough to replace every year just to be on the safe side.
Rich
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Jewelry
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I would think you're correct
I would think you're correct in your assessment of the dry rot issue. Take the assembly to your local welding supply and have it all checked out to make sure the torch seals were not damaged by the flame and get a new hose assembly. Once the welding shop approves it, you should be good to go.
As far as checking for dry rot in the inner liner of the hose, about the only way is to give it a pressure test periodically using compressed air at about double the pressure you normally run the hose at. That way, if there's a weak area it will give way with a non-flammable gas (air) and no burns. The real test is a "leak-down" test, performed by pressurizing the hose with a gauge in the line and plugging it off. The pressure is checked after 24 hours to determine if any minute leakage occurs. That's probably not necessary 0 the hose is cheap enough to replace every year just to be on the safe side.
Rich