Sandblasting will give you a very uniform, matte finish that is composed of bazillions of tiny little impact craters, the size of which depends on the specific blasting media they use. Black Beauty or coarse sand will be too "toothy" a surface and will both look and feel rough to the hand. Fine glass bead blasting would give a very soft satiny finish that would feel okay. Any blasting finish will be very good at holding the wax/oil mixture to get a durable finish, but they'll all be a very uniform, featureless dull lgray finish unless you tint the wax/oil or heat darken it. Also, if you fail to get finish on any area at all, it will rust overnight since the blasted finish has about ten times the surface area as a hammered finish.
The one exception to the above would be if you could get it "blasted" with a Wheel-A-Brator, a machine that whirls like a dervish and flings steel balls at the object until it is beat into submission. Generically called "shot-peening." That gives a micro-planished surface that pops all the scale off but doesn't open up the surface the way that grit blasting does.
I would probably opt for the Wheel-A-Brator if available locally, or the wire brush, and not do the grit blasting.
I hope this helps.
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Jake, Sandblasting will give
Jake,
Sandblasting will give you a very uniform, matte finish that is composed of bazillions of tiny little impact craters, the size of which depends on the specific blasting media they use. Black Beauty or coarse sand will be too "toothy" a surface and will both look and feel rough to the hand. Fine glass bead blasting would give a very soft satiny finish that would feel okay. Any blasting finish will be very good at holding the wax/oil mixture to get a durable finish, but they'll all be a very uniform, featureless dull lgray finish unless you tint the wax/oil or heat darken it. Also, if you fail to get finish on any area at all, it will rust overnight since the blasted finish has about ten times the surface area as a hammered finish.
The one exception to the above would be if you could get it "blasted" with a Wheel-A-Brator, a machine that whirls like a dervish and flings steel balls at the object until it is beat into submission. Generically called "shot-peening." That gives a micro-planished surface that pops all the scale off but doesn't open up the surface the way that grit blasting does.
I would probably opt for the Wheel-A-Brator if available locally, or the wire brush, and not do the grit blasting.
I hope this helps.