Bill Roberts (not verified) -
Sunday, December 16, 2007 - 12:45pm
Glen, I agree with everything Gene said.
But to start with "pitted" SS plate for a design that requires a polished finish......well it just seems like working "harder not smarter". I can think of better ways to "refine your polishing skills" LOL. I'm sure there's a reason you started with that material. So....I guess what I'm saying is if your design calls for a polished finish....I'd suggest starting with polished metal.
One thing that wasn't addressed in the polishing process was your "buffer". ALL your buffing wheels NEED to be isolated and protected from contamination. By that I mean, it should be in a separate "room or area" that isn't exposed to the the grit and grime of your fabrication area. And use different "wheels" for each abrasive compound. There is nothing worse than spending hours going through the stages of sanding only to find that the final polish has "somehow" left you with NEW scratches. A buffing wheel will only be good as the most abrasive compound that you've loaded it with. Meaning......you could take a rouge or final finish buffing wheel and put a more abrasive compound on it IF YOU HAD TO. But it would never be any good for the rouge or final finish polishing phase again. THIS does not work going the other way.....you would never try to use a wheel "loaded" with a coarse abrasive to then use with a rouge or final polish compound. I say this because sometimes you find yourself in a bind, for whatever reason, "needing" a buffing wheel and your unable to get a new one.
As a RULE once I designate a wheel for a specific abrasive compound....it's labeled or color coded and kept in separate ziplock bags or equivalent and not cross contaminated or exposed to shop grit or grime.
Sorry for getting so long winded...but I can't tell you how many times I've seen this happen.
Bill
I agree with everything Gene
Glen, I agree with everything Gene said.
But to start with "pitted" SS plate for a design that requires a polished finish......well it just seems like working "harder not smarter". I can think of better ways to "refine your polishing skills" LOL. I'm sure there's a reason you started with that material. So....I guess what I'm saying is if your design calls for a polished finish....I'd suggest starting with polished metal.
One thing that wasn't addressed in the polishing process was your "buffer". ALL your buffing wheels NEED to be isolated and protected from contamination. By that I mean, it should be in a separate "room or area" that isn't exposed to the the grit and grime of your fabrication area. And use different "wheels" for each abrasive compound. There is nothing worse than spending hours going through the stages of sanding only to find that the final polish has "somehow" left you with NEW scratches. A buffing wheel will only be good as the most abrasive compound that you've loaded it with. Meaning......you could take a rouge or final finish buffing wheel and put a more abrasive compound on it IF YOU HAD TO. But it would never be any good for the rouge or final finish polishing phase again. THIS does not work going the other way.....you would never try to use a wheel "loaded" with a coarse abrasive to then use with a rouge or final polish compound. I say this because sometimes you find yourself in a bind, for whatever reason, "needing" a buffing wheel and your unable to get a new one.
As a RULE once I designate a wheel for a specific abrasive compound....it's labeled or color coded and kept in separate ziplock bags or equivalent and not cross contaminated or exposed to shop grit or grime.
Sorry for getting so long winded...but I can't tell you how many times I've seen this happen.
Bill