Posted by Chris Ray on October 17, 1997 at 20:44:25:

Here are a couple of posts from the ArtMetal mail list plus an excellant project design supplied by George Carlson for a shop built stand.

A reference is made here about a shop built stand for a small horizontal bandsaw. George Carlson has generously allowed us to refer to his site and view these plans that he has drawn up.

http://www.flex.net/~geotek/hmsc/sawstand/sawstand.htm

David Mudge writes:

This looks like a very good project that will yield excellent

results. I'm sure that it is well thought out and kinks removed.

These guys are mostly machinists and the like.

Although I have not built this stand & pump for my small saw

as of yet, I have added a coolant pump to my big saw. The

results are smoother cutting and a greatly increased blade

life. I use a water soluble oil that can be mixed as much as

20:1. (which like the $13. bi-metal blades, also comes from

Tyler Tool, 601-876-2145 )

Be sure to focus your attention on what you are doing when

using a band saw. Check & double check that your workpiece

is securely locked in the vice or vise. You can easily break teeth

off of even the very best blades if the workpiece slips. You should

always lift the blade off of the piece to be cut BEFORE turning

on the saw. If you are cutting a long drop off, you should support

the drop with an adjustable stand. Squirt some light oil on the

rollers and guides every couple of days. Keep the blade tension

quite tight. At the end of the workday be sure that the saw is in the

down position and motor is un-plugged, to keep little hands attached

to the arms to which they belong. The small saws don't have blade

guards, so be EXTREMELY careful when using them in the vertical

position. Wear gloves because the workpiece can heat up quite

unexpectedly. Hold the workpiece with vice grips, tongs, push stick,

what-have-you, whenever possible.

If you are cutting a short piece, ( i.e.: 1" off of a 3" long piece) block

the empty side of the vice (vise) with a small piece of the same

diameter stock.

The rule-of-thumb for teeth per inch (tpi) is to have two teeth in

contact with the workpiece at all times. That means don't try to cut

thin emt tubing with a 6 tpi blade. you will jam the saw and break off

teeth . Just FOCUS and be very careful and you will have a great tool.

It should go without saying, but I'll say it anyway,

"Always wear safety glasses when working with any power tool"

Dave Mudge / Magic Hammer Forge

lama@wild.net / magichammer@geocities.com

http://www.geocities.com/Eureka/Park/1327

Editor for: Louisiana Metalsmiths' Association

http://www.wild.net/~lama

Lee Marshal writes:

May I suggest that you make another modification? If you were to add a

double jet of coolant just after the blade exits the rear set of blade

guides, you could throw away that ridiculous chip brush. I added this to

my 7x12 saw, kept the orifices at about 1/16" for more velocity, and my

blade life took a major jump. By getting rid of chips in the teeth, you

are cutting cleaner and the teeth last longer. It runs off of the same

pump and the pump has more than enough capacity.

I also added a spin-on oil filter that the coolant goes through after

leaving the pump, and before going to the nozzles.

Lee

bonnydoonengineering.com

• bandsaw stand

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