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HAND TOOLS AND DEVICES FOR COLD FORMING METAL
Follow UpsBramblebush ForumsFAQ Posted by Chris Ray on October 17, 1997 at 12:09:58: Dan Schulz posted the following article in the Bramblebush Dated : October 16, 1997 at 15:52:08 Well, we don't do all your homework for you as far as researching specific suppliers but here are some suggestions to help you in your search. Do check out the resource section on this site and follow the link to the supplier's list. There we have a number of specific suppliers which we try to keep updated as best we can. Next you may perhaps try the Thomas Register for other suppliers and then there is McMaster-Carr, and perhaps MSC (Metal Supply Co.), Grainger's, Centaur Forge, etc. and some of these folks may be found on line. I don't know what size or range of metal stock you are considering so I'll simply make a couple of general assumptions as a starting guide. For heavier material then you'll have to locate the proper equipment. Okay, now let's say that on average you might be using square stock from maybe 3/8" through 1" for some types of furnishings. Also lets assume that some sheet metal in the range of 16 ga. to 12 ga. will be used and some flats maybe 1/4" x 1/2 through 1/4" x 1" or more, and maybe 3/8" x 1", 1/2" x 1" is nice to use too. We'll include some 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" rounds in our basic inventory as well. Oh yes, perhaps some angle iron too from 1/8" to 1/4" thickness by whatever leg size is required. Anything else? Well, we'll deal with specifics if we come across any. Now the next question. Are you forming your metal hot or cold? If you are hot forging then you aren't going to require too much in the way of tooling from suppliers since you'll generally be making your own. So I'm assuming that we are going to be dealing mainly with cold formed material, just for the sake of this discussion. Okay let's get started and by the way, whatever brand name I specify does not mean that ArtMetal.com endorses any of these products, they don't. My recommendations are personal ones only and I am responsible only for my opinion, not the products. I have to state this for obvious reasons. Now let's have some fun shopping. For bending, either flat square bends or radius bends or for rounds and pipe, nothing compares to one of the most useful all around benders like the Hossfeld bender #2. There is also a comparable bender manufactured by American Bending Co. Also here is another fabulous bender and it is the Diacro Bender #2 or #3. Since they are no longer manufactured you can only find them used but the search would be well worth any effort. They are beautiful hand benders. The capacity of the Hossfeld #2 is more than 1/2" x 2" flat and the Diacro #2 handles about 1/2" square or so. The #3 is for 5/8" material, maybe more. Either type of bender allows a wide range of bends from tight radius' to large arcs, or you can bend flats at right angles or offsets plus a whole range of other types of bends if you make your own special dies. An easy enough thing to do in some cases. These types of benders are the most versatile and useful all around benders any shop could have, at least for hand bending operations. Well, that's my hearty opinion anyway. Making circles. Well, you may use your hand bender to do that although there is usually a flat area at the beginning and the end of the stock after forming the basic shape. This will have to be corrected by hand over a form such as an anvil horn or other shape. A conical mandrel is one shop tool that is made for this specific operation but may be difficult to find. Now that's not all. If you have a slip roller that is used for forming sheet metal, then sometimes the capacity of that machine will allow you to roll up some bar stock as well. Then there are some hand rollers now on the market that are specifically designed to shape rings. Check out Fabricator Magazine for one or two manufacturers who are now offering these devices. I haven't seen too many of the hand operated types around and those advertised seem like they would do the job on squares up to 1/2" or so. Finally, if you choose, you may also make some circle forms instead, similar to the way you make the scroll forms (see below). Use a heavier metal for the form, take the time to true up the circle and weld it up. Weld on some braces and perhaps a piece that may be clamped in your vise. Use a bending fork and make your circles by hand this way. Scrolls...now there's a touchy subject with me as far as cold bending goes. The most important part of any scroll is the beginning of the spiral and it determines the character of that shape. Any mechanical scroll bender I've ever seen starts a scroll with an ugly flat bend that is a disgrace to this well loved and revered shape. A scroll is one of the most beautiful linear shapes that nature offers us and the variety of curves and turns is never ending. Mechanical scroll formers are useless devices for serious scroll work and I would dismiss the idea of using them. Alright so what is the alternative? Make your own former. It's easy once you learn to make the first form. This takes a little bit of time to make but is well worth it. First you make a scroll form in the shape of the particular size scroll you need. Then to start the scroll you might heat the end of a bar with even a rosebud or heating tip on your torch, shape that end and form the start of the scroll freehand for maybe 3/4 of a turn at least. You then hook the end of the scroll into the form itself and with the aid of a bending fork you form your metal to conform to the shape of the form you just made and that's it. Okay, I understand that if you do mostly cold work then this operation may seem like a mystique but I would suggest finding a book like Jack Andrew's "Edge Of The Anvil" or some other to find out how to do this. I can't show you with words alone in this short description. Check out the Blacksmith's Journal which has a web site somewhere (try a search engine) and perhaps there may be a topic covering this subject with illustrations. Since scroll forms are fairly simple to make, especially if you have a hand bender in your shop, you may then make quite a number of forms describing a rich variety of scroll shapes to match whatever project you are working on. Keep in mind that most of the scrolls used for furniture making are constructed of fairly lightweight material so the idea of hand forming with a scroll bending fork/scroll form combination should not be intimidating. Twisting square stock. This is easier than it sounds for metal up to 1/2", or even 5/8" without using a twisting machine, which is expensive. Again I would suggest that you make your own twisting setup, it's so simple and though you may tire at the end of the day after making dozens or scores of them just think of how your loved one will be admiring your glistening pumped up biceps. I'll describe a simple twisting proceedure first so you'll understand what's happening. To twist a bar you first clamp one end, slip an appropriate sized pipe over the bar, insert your twisting fork or bar and make the required turns. That's all there is to it, you can vary the technique but it's all basically the same operation. With a twisting machine you might eliminate the pipe sleeve but other than that, this is all they do. So, for twisting a 1/2" square let's say, you need your vise, of course, then cut a pipe with an inside diameter that fits comfortably over a square bar. Cut it to the length of the actual twist you want to make. The pipe helps to keep the bar aligned while twisting and is slipped off after the operation. Don't forget to grip the bar at the right distance too at the beginning. Next you use a twisting bar which you have made and then simply twist the number of turns you need. A twisting bar can be a simple heavy flat plate with a square hole in the center, then long handles are welded onto it. That's one way to make it. I have a tool I made from a monkey wrench I got at a flea market, then welded an extension handle on the head of the wrench. This makes for an adjustable twisting tool so I need only one tool instead of a variety of them to do the same job. Simple. What happened to our shopping spree? I thought we were going out to buy all this stuff. Okay then let's go out and buy another great tool that has endless uses in the shop. Sheet metal shears: here is a tool that is indispensible if you are including any sheet metalwork into your furniture designs. My favorite all around shears which has served me so well from the beginning I'm almost ashamed to have paid what I did for it. Sometimes I think I should send another check for the original amount to the manufacturer simply because of the value of this tool. That is the Beverly Shears #2 and #3. These simple shears can cut straight and radius cuts. If you can have only one shear in the shop then this is the one to get (an opinion, of course). It's not so effecient for straight line cuts but that type of cut can easily be done if you are careful. If your work includes a lot of straight cutting as well and you can afford it then add a slitting shear to your set up. These make in line cuts only and Edwards makes a good line of this type of shear as well as other companies. I have a slitting shear with a 14" blade that was made in Taiwan and it's a sweetheart. The blade steel is comparable to any other I've used but maybe I just lucked out on this purchase. So what else is there that we might be missing, better think of it now while we still have our unlimited line of credit on our magical Visa card? Sheet metal equipment, but frankly this is is a separate subject in itself. The tooling is a bit different to make a different family of shapes etc. Let's stick with the tools for our basic furniture making projects. Oh, let's not forget the indispensible drill press. Endless uses for that machine and most any good brand will do the job for you, depending on the capacity. A horizontal bandsaw is another great machine to have, let's not forget. I'm assuming there is a welder, preferably a mig machine in the shop and some sort of simple heat source like an oxy/acetlyene outfit. Many of us would think we're living in the stone age if we didn't have our assortment of vise grips, "C" clamps and the like and check out the magnetic clamps discussed elsewhere in the Artisan's Journal. Whew! That was quite a shopping spree we did this afternoon. Now the problem is how are we going to fit all our goodies into the pickup truck. Shouldn't be too much of a problem I guess since they were mostly hand operated tools and devices we bought and it's good to know that after we set it all up, there will still be plenty of room in the shop to get some acutal work done. Chris Ray
Name: Comments: : Dan Schulz posted the following article in the Bramblebush : Well, we don't do all your homework for you as far as researching specific suppliers but here are some suggestions to help you in your search. Do check out the resource section on this site and follow the link to the supplier's list. There we have a number of specific suppliers which we try to keep updated as best we can. Next you may perhaps try the Thomas Register for other suppliers and then there is McMaster-Carr, and perhaps MSC (Metal Supply Co.), Grainger's, Centaur Forge, etc. and some of these folks may be found on line. : I don't know what size or range of metal stock you are considering so I'll simply make a couple of general assumptions as a starting guide. For heavier material then you'll have to locate the proper equipment. : Okay, now let's say that on average you might be using square stock from maybe 3/8" through 1" for some types of furnishings. Also lets assume that some sheet metal in the range of 16 ga. to 12 ga. will be used and some flats maybe 1/4" x 1/2 through 1/4" x 1" or more, and maybe 3/8" x 1", 1/2" x 1" is nice to use too. We'll include some 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" rounds in our basic inventory as well. Oh yes, perhaps some angle iron too from 1/8" to 1/4" thickness by whatever leg size is required. Anything else? Well, we'll deal with specifics if we come across any. : Now the next question. Are you forming your metal hot or cold? If you are hot forging then you aren't going to require too much in the way of tooling from suppliers since you'll generally be making your own. So I'm assuming that we are going to be dealing mainly with cold formed material, just for the sake of this discussion. : Okay let's get started and by the way, whatever brand name I specify does not mean that ArtMetal.com endorses any of these products, they don't. My recommendations are personal ones only and I am responsible only for my opinion, not the products. I have to state this for obvious reasons. : Now let's have some fun shopping. For bending, either flat square bends or radius bends or for rounds and pipe, nothing compares to one of the most useful all around benders like the Hossfeld bender #2. There is also a comparable bender manufactured by American Bending Co. Also here is another fabulous bender and it is the Diacro Bender #2 or #3. Since they are no longer manufactured you can only find them used but the search would be well worth any effort. They are beautiful hand benders. The capacity of the Hossfeld #2 is more than 1/2" x 2" flat and the Diacro #2 handles about 1/2" square or so. The #3 is for 5/8" material, maybe more. Either type of bender allows a wide range of bends from tight radius' to large arcs, or you can bend flats at right angles or offsets plus a whole range of other types of bends if you make your own special dies. An easy enough thing to do in some cases. These types of benders are the most versatile and useful all around benders any shop could have, at least for hand bending operations. Well, that's my hearty opinion anyway. : Making circles. Well, you may use your hand bender to do that although there is usually a flat area at the beginning and the end of the stock after forming the basic shape. This will have to be corrected by hand over a form such as an anvil horn or other shape. A conical mandrel is one shop tool that is made for this specific operation but may be difficult to find. : Now that's not all. If you have a slip roller that is used for forming sheet metal, then sometimes the capacity of that machine will allow you to roll up some bar stock as well. Then there are some hand rollers now on the market that are specifically designed to shape rings. Check out Fabricator Magazine for one or two manufacturers who are now offering these devices. I haven't seen too many of the hand operated types around and those advertised seem like they would do the job on squares up to 1/2" or so. Finally, if you choose, you may also make some circle forms instead, similar to the way you make the scroll forms (see below). Use a heavier metal for the form, take the time to true up the circle and weld it up. Weld on some braces and perhaps a piece that may be clamped in your vise. Use a bending fork and make your circles by hand this way. : Scrolls...now there's a touchy subject with me as far as cold bending goes. The most important part of any scroll is the beginning of the spiral and it determines the character of that shape. Any mechanical scroll bender I've ever seen starts a scroll with an ugly flat bend that is a disgrace to this well loved and revered shape. A scroll is one of the most beautiful linear shapes that nature offers us and the variety of curves and turns is never ending. Mechanical scroll formers are useless devices for serious scroll work and I would dismiss the idea of using them. Alright so what is the alternative? Make your own former. It's easy once you learn to make the first form. : This takes a little bit of time to make but is well worth it. First you make a scroll form in the shape of the particular size scroll you need. Then to start the scroll you might heat the end of a bar with even a rosebud or heating tip on your torch, shape that end and form the start of the scroll freehand for maybe 3/4 of a turn at least. You then hook the end of the scroll into the form itself and with the aid of a bending fork you form your metal to conform to the shape of the form you just made and that's it. Okay, I understand that if you do mostly cold work then this operation may seem like a mystique but I would suggest finding a book like Jack Andrew's "Edge Of The Anvil" or some other to find out how to do this. I can't show you with words alone in this short description. Check out the Blacksmith's Journal which has a web site somewhere (try a search engine) and perhaps there may be a topic covering this subject with illustrations. : Since scroll forms are fairly simple to make, especially if you have a hand bender in your shop, you may then make quite a number of forms describing a rich variety of scroll shapes to match whatever project you are working on. Keep in mind that most of the scrolls used for furniture making are constructed of fairly lightweight material so the idea of hand forming with a scroll bending fork/scroll form combination should not be intimidating. : Twisting square stock. This is easier than it sounds for metal up to 1/2", or even 5/8" without using a twisting machine, which is expensive. Again I would suggest that you make your own twisting setup, it's so simple and though you may tire at the end of the day after making dozens or scores of them just think of how your loved one will be admiring your glistening pumped up biceps. : I'll describe a simple twisting proceedure first so you'll understand what's happening. To twist a bar you first clamp one end, slip an appropriate sized pipe over the bar, insert your twisting fork or bar and make the required turns. That's all there is to it, you can vary the technique but it's all basically the same operation. With a twisting machine you might eliminate the pipe sleeve but other than that, this is all they do. : So, for twisting a 1/2" square let's say, you need your vise, of course, then cut a pipe with an inside diameter that fits comfortably over a square bar. Cut it to the length of the actual twist you want to make. The pipe helps to keep the bar aligned while twisting and is slipped off after the operation. Don't forget to grip the bar at the right distance too at the beginning. Next you use a twisting bar which you have made and then simply twist the number of turns you need. A twisting bar can be a simple heavy flat plate with a square hole in the center, then long handles are welded onto it. That's one way to make it. I have a tool I made from a monkey wrench I got at a flea market, then welded an extension handle on the head of the wrench. This makes for an adjustable twisting tool so I need only one tool instead of a variety of them to do the same job. Simple. : What happened to our shopping spree? I thought we were going out to buy all this stuff. Okay then let's go out and buy another great tool that has endless uses in the shop. : Sheet metal shears: here is a tool that is indispensible if you are including any sheet metalwork into your furniture designs. My favorite all around shears which has served me so well from the beginning I'm almost ashamed to have paid what I did for it. Sometimes I think I should send another check for the original amount to the manufacturer simply because of the value of this tool. That is the Beverly Shears #2 and #3. : These simple shears can cut straight and radius cuts. If you can have only one shear in the shop then this is the one to get (an opinion, of course). It's not so effecient for straight line cuts but that type of cut can easily be done if you are careful. If your work includes a lot of straight cutting as well and you can afford it then add a slitting shear to your set up. These make in line cuts only and Edwards makes a good line of this type of shear as well as other companies. I have a slitting shear with a 14" blade that was made in Taiwan and it's a sweetheart. The blade steel is comparable to any other I've used but maybe I just lucked out on this purchase. : So what else is there that we might be missing, better think of it now while we still have our unlimited line of credit on our magical Visa card? Sheet metal equipment, but frankly this is is a separate subject in itself. The tooling is a bit different to make a different family of shapes etc. Let's stick with the tools for our basic furniture making projects. : Oh, let's not forget the indispensible drill press. Endless uses for that machine and most any good brand will do the job for you, depending on the capacity. A horizontal bandsaw is another great machine to have, let's not forget. I'm assuming there is a welder, preferably a mig machine in the shop and some sort of simple heat source like an oxy/acetlyene outfit. Many of us would think we're living in the stone age if we didn't have our assortment of vise grips, "C" clamps and the like and check out the magnetic clamps discussed elsewhere in the Artisan's Journal. : Whew! That was quite a shopping spree we did this afternoon. Now the problem is how are we going to fit all our goodies into the pickup truck. Shouldn't be too much of a problem I guess since they were mostly hand operated tools and devices we bought and it's good to know that after we set it all up, there will still be plenty of room in the shop to get some acutal work done. : Chris Ray "> [ Follow Ups ] [ Bramblebush Forums ] [ FAQ ] |
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