Re: Wax casting


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Posted by John Dach on November 13, 1999 at 16:52:48:

In Reply to: Wax casting posted by Jack Davis on November 07, 1999 at 08:11:57:


Ahhhhhhh yes, tis a problem. One thing, if you have a lot of leakers, might think of different mold making method to stop such. I used to have this problem when I did the "glove coat, paper/tin dams, more coats over the glove til thick enough, put on the mother, take out the paper/tin damand finally cut the initial glove coat where the paper/tin dams met it.

NOW, though it takes a bit longer, I use very soft clay and make my parting lines on the master with the clay so now I know EXACTLY wehre the parting lines are. I can use 1/8" wax wire close to and around the master for air vents (if needed) and make registration buttons in the clay as needed. Also able to make a "wall" of rubber to get the rubber to really hold on to the mother and also have a "sight" to fill to with the mother. Get one side done, flip the whole thing over, remove all of the clay EXCEPT the outer edge "wall" clay, add a new "wall" section on the existing "wall BOTTOM", spray on release to release the rubber contact areas and put on the other side of the rubber. I use Poly Sulfide now (used to use silicon but it goes bad, settles, and tears) and have esentially no leakers. (sorry for the above "description". I will try to get some picts posted soon to "show" what I said.)

As to bubbles and pour lines. I have just changed my wax to a mix of a "ultra refined" victory brown (Premier Bronze #90500) and a hardener, flowing, debubbling wax (PX20 Pink Pastille #90372) both from Remet/Drussek Campbell (800-445-2424). This wax mixed about 50/50 for warm summer temps (I think I will reduce the hardener content for cold weather as it gets a bit brittle) has fantastic pouring characteristics. Bubble release is just GREAT. I now pour, slosh, turn, rotate,,,, whatever, and dump. Let the mold/wax cool off, really back to room temp, and refill and slosh, dump and cool again. I do this one more time and I am done. With this method, the inward indents (between legs, arms next to body, under chin, anywhere there is a wedged area of mold rubber) coat very well. The wax coats stick to each other very well, even though the previous coat was cold. The wax is easy to work (hard if a bit cool, soft if body temp or under a work light) it weld together well, etc. etc. etc. It has revolutionized my wax pouring, wax rework.

The work I do for Cynthia is detailed, often with deeeep draws, many captures, smooth surfaces, etc. (see I melt my wax in a home built, temp controlled tank (2 of them) holding about 40-50 gallons of wax each. The tanks have helped in wax work as the temp is now CONSTANT. I also heat ALL OF THE MOLDS to 100f (old freezer, use the defrost coils hooked to a thermostate for heat, the defrost fan for air movement) to try to keep things repeatable and constant. Works VERY WELL.

So there you have a couple of different ways I do things. Wax work, pouring , chasing is a big time consumer on certain types of works, not so on others. I spend as much time on the wax as I do on the metal, sometimes more. I would be most interested in any other thoughts or ideas, or methods as I KNOW my way is just A way. I am ALWAYS looking for ways to improve. Also would be interested in hearing about spruing techniques (especially for ceramic shell) as I am in a constant inner termoil with myself about direct pour vs bottom pour, where to place sprues, vents, metal reservoirs, ETC!!!!!!

Geeze I love this site and all of you fantastic folks.

Johh Dach

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