Re: Snap flasks or hardware for them?

ArtMetal
Bramblebush


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Posted by bpfink on October 03, 1999 at 08:02:54:

In Reply to: Snap flasks or hardware for them? posted by Rob Frink on October 02, 1999 at 20:45:04:

The easiest way I found to handle this problem is to make up some standard plywood /open top boxes. These are usually made for each separate job mold but by being somewhat square they will also be very stackable and storable later.

I usually use about 1/4 to 1/2 inch plywood depending on the sizes and what scrap is around (most of mine are less than 18 inches in the longest direction).

Then determine the locations needed for the disassembly of each mold and mark the separation lines to cut the box apart.

Cut ONLY the line section areas that will be getting the hinges or locks and screw those in place while the box still holds its full shape. These are the cheapo type hinges with the pins that will slip out. Then cut the remaining lines so the box now comes apart. By doing it this way every thing will line up perfectly later.

If there are questions of side alignment also screw on some additional wood strips that will act as roman joints or tongue and groove stabilizers.

The rest is done in traditional ways setting in the urethane rubber (or whatever) inner mold and filling the gaps with a plaster for the mother mold backing to fill to the box limits. For smaller ones I use standard plaster,

for larger ones I use plaster filled with foam beads or vermiculite or coarse sawdust, etc so when it sets and dries the weight is highly diminished.

If even larger the plaster is laid on with hemp so it is very thin but still touches the inner edges of the plywood box,

and if real large the plaster is not used at all but go to fiberglas and reinforcing glass mat or cloth. This makes for a really large mold that is still very easy to handle and later stack or store. When working this large I also do a lot of the fiberglasing first and then cut the box to fit very snug. I have one sculpture mold that is for a 17 foot high piece, comes in 19 different sections... but aligns and still stores easily.

NOW for the additional features of plywood...

When slush casting a mold in hot wax with its heavy weight (while the entire mold is filled and too hot or dangerous to handle up close to your body) I have screwed or even bolted some steel pipe flanges to the opposing sides of the box.

These will facilitate stable no-hands holding while it is poured full, and then the controlled dumping of the mold when the skin of the wax has set enough and it is being slushed out.

Repeats of this are possible, holding in a set position while it cools is possible, and eating lunch or mowing the lawn or being away form it is also possible for it to properly cool before the next slush pour coat.

This is important especially if you are doing several successive pours in differing waxes for the surface and inner body stability.

AND it is all safe and controlled and non hazard forming (a very important feature if your molds are either hot or large or need exact timing periods... like when pouring in 150 # wax per slushing...).

I work both very large and rather small sometimes, but this system is good for both.

Of course with my pneumatic nail guns, power screw drivers and various types of glues in a fairly complete wood working studio making the boxes are a momentary sidestep but even with more primitive hammer and nails I would pursue the same directions.

Good luck, hope this might help a little.

bpfink


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