Wax Protective Finishes

Posted by Marrin T. Fleet on September 29, 1998 at 06:58:47:

I don't use a "brand" name wax finish-- I use what has been called, here in Memphis "Mr. Leo's Polish Polish". That's "Polish" as in from Poland, and "polish" as to make shiney. This was originally a woodworker's formula, as are the paste

waxes (but also works great as a protective top finish on cast metals with the intention of being rewaxed when needed, usually yearly).

Take a pound of Carnuba wax,

a pound of bee's wax,

a pint (or slightly more) of

high-quality painter's turpentine, and a half-cup or so of boiled linseed oil.

Mix this in a double boiler, preferably OUTSIDE!

(1) Melt the bee's wax first.

(2)Add the Carnuba

(3) Stir in the linseed oil

(4) The volitile turpentine is last.

Don't let all the turps boil away. This is what primarily allows the wax to be spread soft, then dry hard.

Spread on the item to be wax polished, and allow the wax to dry thoroughly. Then buff until shiney. The harder the wax you have made, the stiffer the brush.

After you make your first batch, if you would like the wax harder, more durable, and more difficult to bring to a polish, increase the Carnuba.

If you want a softer, less durable wax, increase the bee's wax and linseed oil.

If you want a longer drying time, increase the linseed oil, which will also soften it a bit.

If you want a shorter drying time, decrease the linseed, and increase the turps. This way, you have more control over the product and the outcome.

This receipe is for an amount used by woodworkers. You could probably make a smaller batch, if you are careful to keep the proportions right. Marin T. Fleet

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