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byJohan se - Tuesday, December 4, 2012 - 3:34pmblue | car | freight | iron | metal | sheet | train
Roger Smith - Monday, December 3, 2012 - 8:48pmCasting
I'm looking for #30 crucible furnace. I would prefer a good used MIFCO, Johnson or equal. I would consider home made one if it were a real good one. I want one that is safe and serviceable with off the shelf parts.
eslighton - Sunday, December 2, 2012 - 1:45amWelding Brazing Welding Stainless Steel
Hi. I need advice on joining Stainless Steel.
I am a complete novice with welding and brazing although I have a lot of soldering experience. My current project involves joining 316 stainless sheet (3mm thick) in a sculpture and I am stuck.
T Bourke - Saturday, December 1, 2012 - 10:37pmcleaning | vinegar
After a little reading I decided to see how vinegar worked for cleaning slag, rust, and other gak off of some pieces I just welded up. Just a room temp soak over night. I could see mill slag and the white gak from welding floating off pretty quick. If this works I really like the idea of a vinigar soak to clean stuff up before a final wash and finish. If it works I have several pieces to do it with.
T Bourke - Saturday, December 1, 2012 - 9:22pm
Hello, I was just reading over my old posts here and realised it has been a while. I am in the process of building xmass presents for the family. Since I last posted here I have upgraded my shop a little bit. I still have the old AC stick welder. I dont use it becasue the rods tend to get old and damp in my garage. I may build a dehydrator for them. When I know I will need it for really thick stuff I can warm them up the day before and get them ready to use. I now have a Lincoln 140 wirefeed. I am glad I already knew stick welding.
Odinseye - Friday, November 30, 2012 - 1:08pm
I'm an artist, woodworker, and metalsmith (I'm also Senior Preparator at an art museum). I have slowly been building my collection of tools for metal work since college, and I have recently found and purchased a few hundred vintage chasing tools. I have never actually done chasing (yet), but I basically understand the the process. (I minored in metalsmithing at Syracuse U. My question is: Do the marks on the sides of the tools have any significant meaning? Many of my tools are marked with hatched lines which look similar to Roman numerals. I didn't know if they were simply maker's marks, of if they indicated a size or shape code. The tools are from many different makers like Dixon, Grobet, Stubs, and others.(most appear to be 19th or early 20th century). Any help would be appreciated. Also, and recommendations on good instruction books on chasing would be useful. Many thanks.
dong gwan Choi - Sunday, November 18, 2012 - 9:29amsculpture
makes cheerful rhythm when they play
Joe B - Saturday, November 17, 2012 - 10:23amcoloring | finish | patina
I've been wanting to find a good technique for getting specific colors into my steel items and still have the underlying steel surface show through a bit. I had an interesting experience with using ink and then coating that with Rustoleum Clear Enamel. It looked great initially but then the ink seemed to fade over time. I've thought about using some oil based paints mixed into varnish. I've had good experience with soaking steel items in vinegar for a day, then wire brushing with a knotted wire brush in an angle grinder. This gives a bright shiny surface to start with.
MazaMario - Tuesday, November 13, 2012 - 7:42am
I have some problems whit vacuum casting and I need some help. I work with silver and the problem is that on the end of the casting silver comes out BLACK ?! Silver temperature is 1080 degrees and flask temperature is outside 120 and inside 270. I heard, when it comes out black that the flask teperature is too high. Does someone know the perfect temperature? And also with what sholud I clean silver after?