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Valerie Rock -
Friday, November 3, 2006 - 5:19pm
OT: Sandbox YAK | Welding Written by Chris Ray for ArtMetal.com: The Artoprise Chronicles was something that both Enrique and Chris Ray came up with as an idea for an introduction to the new ArtMetal.com site. Since this is a new site for what we consider a concept rather than an actual place, we wanted to express something that would reflect the diversity of the people that are involved with this venture. There are new things planned, and old things preserved, but what remains unchanged is the character of all the artists and craftspeople that participate in this venture. We are making a new offering that will augment what is already available. In a way, we consider this place a kind of village that is home for the spirit, and a workplace as well. As with many small towns and villages throughout the world, everyone knows everyone else, and each gladly assists the others when there is a need or even when there isn't. We have a mail list through which we communicate with each other, and there is something about the character of this particular list that is quite unique.....at least we all think so. The bus is waiting, so when you come aboard, make room for others to join you. We're going on a little journey ...[<snip>]... and it may seem a little strange....well that's what some adventures are. A lot of good folks will be joining us on this trip, and though they
Okay.... go on now, don't let me hold you up. Chris Ray
Author/illustrator: Chris Ray - from the original manuscript: "The Artoprise Chronicles" circa 1997  Confidence w/ your system
Valerie Rock -
Sunday, November 5, 2006 - 2:34am
Hi, ChrisG!
It's good you read over lots of information before starting up the system. But you pose good questions that are not usually answered in the literature. You are entirely correct: a leak anywhere on the system is completely unacceptable.
(and an errant flame is *not good*!)
You are correct to stop using the equipment until you are entirely sure what is happening and why. And how to fix it, and be confident with your setup. Yes, Victor has O-rings on the part that threads onto the torch body. (Not all brands do) Check them, but they should not have been damaged by the flame: you reacted quickly and they can take some heat/flame. These two O-rings are two different sizes. Make sure you have an extra before trying to pull them off. You should be able to visually inspect with good light and not have to take them off. It is cracks in older O-rings that we are usually looking for. A good hand-tightening of that fitting to the torch body is all that is usually needed: the flats on the torch tip are so that you can unloosen them if hard to do later. Notice that the torch body, torch tip end and the part of the torch tip that screws to the torch body are different colors. The torch body is brass, as is the torch tip part that screws to it. The tip itself is copper, a deeper "gold" type color. This part screws directly into that brass part with no O-rings at all. This part (the copper tip) needs to be well-tightened into the brass tip part. You CAN test for leaks this far down the system. Use the same soapy water. Open the oxygen at the torch valve. With a gloved hand, put your finger over the torch tip. Spray the soapy water and look for large bubble to form. Really, when you are checking for leaks...it is obvious that it is not the little froth bubbles from mixed soap and water. Just checking with the oxygen should be enough, since the oxygen and the fuel are mixed earlier in the torch. But you can check separately with the fuel for reassurance. If a leak does show, you can gently use two wrenches to tighten the fitting. If it happens to be the one with the O-rings, do it gently. Shouldn't need more than hand tightening, firmly, on the one with the O-rings. It is a good idea to do this type of leak testing on torch tip parts when assembling for oxyfuel cutting, too. Tip size to metal thickness Number 2 can be used, but as you noticed, it is gets the puddle quite hot and there are sparks. The sparks mean you are rapidly oxidizing the metal. #2 is too much for the 1/8" I'm sorry that it took so long for your supplier to get you a #1! Surprising too that your kit did not come with a range of tip sizes. Anyway, I would find a supplier that can service you better...or use a company over the net or phone. Next day. Look under Groups on ArtMetal and there is a Welding group in which I just posted some reference material on oxy-fuel. I'd be happy to talk you through it on the phone if you have any questions. It is easiest to do this with a experienced person at your side. I also have got a video tape of actual welding demo with torch, flame adjustment, filler rod, how and how not to...done during an actual technical class/ could send. Not commercial; it is real life one. Email me w/ contact info if you wish. Vrock@mhtc.net Success to you! VRocK  VRocK, I don't recall having
ChrisG -
Sunday, November 5, 2006 - 10:45am
VRocK, |
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ArtMetal
New Member: Burning Down the House
Hi, I’m a new member and I’m trying to teach myself oxy-acetylene welding. So stay at a safe distance. I apologize for a long-winded first entry.
In my area the available instruction seems to be “welding schools” – both expensive and vastly beyond my goals of light, modest projects. I don’t want to weld professionally. I don’t have access to 220 volts.
I’m trying to approach this methodically. I bought several videos on welding, including one on safety procedures. I read everything I can find on welding I purchased a small portable welding kit (Victor Firepower), arranged a workspace and recently began “practicing”.
My practice setup: pieces of 1/8” thick ( some a little thinner) steel plate perhaps 1.5” by 3”. Oxy and Acet at 4 pounds working pressure. The set came with a #2 tip, and my initial trials were with that. I set acetylene flame to where smoke nearly disappears, then added oxy until acet flame just enters inner blue cone.
Just running beads I seem to be a little hot. Difficult to get a puddle that isn’t sparking too much (my assessment). Occaisional popping. I tried adjusting flame down initially but the torched warmed up a bit and I thought tip starvation might be occurring- my new policy is never adjust flame down, but move to a smaller tip.
Ok – bought a smaller tip. (#1). This took six weeks before the local welding store could get the right one for the Victor torch I have.
Yesterday I was practicing and after a torch pop there was a flame burning where the tip screws to the torch and also where the tip itself enters threaded fitting. A yellow, rich looking flame – my guess - but I’d say the fuel was leaking and not the oxy. It went out immediately when I shut the torch valves, but it freaked me enough to shut down the system and end the session.
First I realize that the seal at the tip threads is NOT checked by typical leak tests (soapy water or pressure drop). Leaks cannot be found beyond the closed torch valves. The word is never use a wrench on the tip or the o-rings may be damaged( I didn’t ) – but I can’t say for sure if it wasn’t tight enough or the wrong size.
Specific Questions: How dangerous was this situation? Does a fire in the tip damage the o-rings? Is there a way to check for leaks at the tip/torch fitting? I have flashback arrestors on the torch handle, but my thought is that any type of leak anywhere in the system is absolutely unacceptable! I need to know if the tip or operator error was the cause for this problem.
General Questions: I would like to get to the point where I can practice in relative confidence that I’m not going to blow up the building. AM I INSANE to do this?
Thanks for any thoughts!