SMAW SET-UP Here is some basic step-by-step set-up information for the arc welding process. Later on, I will elaborate on some of these points. If this sparks a particular question for you, please post a reply to this entry.

Choose the electrode size, type and amperage range needed in relation to the metal to be welded.

Choose the polarity (DCEN, DCRP, or AC) and connect the electrode and ground cables accordingly. For newer machines, this is with a switch.

Connect the ground cable securely to the work or to the metal table that the work is placed upon.

Turn on the ventilation. Check that you will not be positioned between "suction" type ventilation and the work.

Obtain the proper shield lens and check it for cracks or pits. A "gold-bond" lens should be checked for scratches in the gold layer.

Check that the electrode holder is not in contact with the grounded metal. Do not lay it on the metal table.

Turn on the electrical power supply. At this point, an electric arc will be started whenever an electrode in the holder comes in contact with grounded metal surfaces.  (Make sure that gas cylinders will never come in contact with the electrical arc!) Assume the machine is always ON.

Insert the bare end of the electrode into one of the pairs of grooves in the electrode holder. Be aware of where you point the electrode. Position the electrode tip slightly above the metal to be welded.

You will not be able to see where the electrode is until the arc is started once the helmet is down. Try to get a "feel" for where the electrode is in relation to the metal.Some people find it helpful to practice this with the machine off.

Lower your helmet and swing the electrode down with a twist of the wrist. Scratch the surface of the metal. It is similar to striking a match.

Then slightly raise the electrode from the metal, creating the desired arc length. (You will develop other techniques with practice.)

If the electrode sticks to the metal, wiggle it back and forth to break it loose. If the electrode doesn't break off from the metal, squeeze the handle on the electrode holder to open the jaws and release the electrode. It is important to do this relatively quickly or you may overheat the electrical relays within the machine.

After scratching the metal with one smooth motion, you should have an arc and should be able to clearly see where the electrode is pointing. Adjust the angle of the electrode to 12-20 degrees off of the vertical. Back away from the weld. Move in a relatively slow motion.

Most welders use a slight side-to-side motion weave. The ripples in the finished weld, however, are not created by this motion, but by the back side of the molten puddle cooling as you move along.

You will find that you need to continually watch that you keep the electrode height and electrode angle consistent.

Move your body rather than twist your wrist to move along the metal. Otherwise, the angle of the electrode will continually be changing.

To stop the arc, just pull the electrode away from the metal. (You may also need to fill the crater.) Don't melt the electrode down shorter than two inches from the end.

The electrode stubs will be hot. One practice is to drop the electrode from the holder onto the floor and nudge it under the table with your boot. Then clean them all up at the end of the day.