That's what I was thinking about the wire wheel in the grinder. I could just see that thing launching the nails! I do have an angle grinder but it is a very big one. 15A Dewalt. I guess I need to pick up a small one.

More welding equipment is on my list. Next up is an OA rig. Then plasma cutter or mig, depending on how good I get with what I have. I do have an auto dark helmet and that has made a world of difference.

Thank you.

If you have compressed air, I'd suggest a pneumatic needle scaler. That's what I have been using for slag (and rust) removal for several years now and it is way quicker and more effective than any other method I know of except sandblasting.

Harbor Freight sells an inexpensive small needle scaler for under fifty bucks that works like a charm for scaling weld beads. Replacement needle sets are under ten bucks,but you probably won't need new ones for several years.

If you alread have an air chisel of the pistol-grip sort, HF also sells a needle scaler attachment for that pretty cheaply. I prefer the stand-alone model, myself.

On finishing:

WD-40 is a pretty weak finish in my experience. Okay for a couple of months indoors in a dry climate, but that's about it. For longer life, Penetrol is much better, although slower drying. My personal favorite is Chattahoochee sealer, a preparation made for sealing exterior masonry. It seems to last for several years outdoors, even in my tropical island air.

Rich

I am heading in to town in the next day or so. I will check out HF for the pneumatic needle scaler. I have never used one or even heard of them. I do have an air chisel.

Also thank you for the heads up on WD-40. I had seen it on a TV show as a finish for interior forged steel art. I will look for the Penetrol.

I bought a 4" grinder and knotted wire wheel for it. I also picked up the smallest needle unit they had. I have not tried them but will post with my thoughts and some pictures after I do.

Ran out of time looking for the finish tho.

Both units leave very distinctive marks. The scaler is rougher. The wire brush of course leaves that brushed pattern. Not bad, just another part of the "look" of what ever I am making.

Both also will break any weak welds on small stuff. I think that is fine as I would rather have it break before I give it to some one.

If funding permits check out a miller syncrowave machine. It's a TIG and a Stick machine. I love mine. No slag with the TIG and it's no problem welding small stuff. With regards to the slag look for a bosch grinder with variable speed setting that way you can slow the grinder down for safety and use the wire wheel. With regards to finish try out a rattle can of Krylon clear or a similar product. The other option is build a speed control for a cheap angle grinder. Get a dimmer switch to match the amps of the grinder and wire it to a plug in an electrical box and run a cord from that to the wall. Plug your grinder in to the new extension cord/box you have built and you have speed control. The only thing is the life of the grinder will be reduced somewhat because of the slower spinning fan on the inside. That's why I suggest a cheapy. Hope this helps.
Cheers

The big difference between a sander and a grinder is the RPM they operate at.If you are going to do wire brushing then what you want is a sander because it works at a lower RPM range and is therefore safer,as Artwerkz points out.
Another benefit is that when being used for either wood or stone the abrasives will last longer and the wood will not burn while sanding.
By far the safest method of cleaning small or many angled work is to either blast it in a cabinet(there are many media to choose from,all with different results) or just immerse the work in acid.White vinegar is the smallest stick I hit it with and if that`s not aggressive enough then I go to the Muriatic.If you have patience then the vinegar will usually do what you want over time.You will have to scrub the black oxide off with a wire brush but it`s easy and I like the results.
BTW-From what I`ve heard elsewhere WD-40 is just mineral oil and stoddard solvent.This would explain why it doesn`t last.

In theory there is no difference between theory and practice.
In practice there is.

If you want to use a speed control on a 4-1/2" angle grinder or similar tool, I definitely don't recommend a dimmer switch as your starting point. Those things are rated at 600 watts, r\far lower than the draw of a good angle grinder, and right at the draw of the cheapos with no power. You're likely to end up with a burned out dimmer or grinder, or both.

A better solution is to get one of the SCR-type speed controls designed for universal (AC/DC) motors. Harbor Freight tools sells a "router speed control" for about twenty bucks that will hold up to the task and not burn out your grinder from low voltage - it is a wave clipper, not a resistive process. I use these for routers, grinders, sanders, etc with no problems after several years. They're designed to handle up to about 15 amps without burning up, where a dimmer is rated at about 5 amps on a good day.

Rich