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Casting Aluminum on a Brass permanent Mold
Simon -
Monday, December 31, 2007 - 10:22am
Casting Hi all. I need to cast some tens of Aluminum artifacts, and I´ve been investigating the best way to do it without spending a fortune on professionally made molds, because this is just an amateur project. The idea is to create a permanent mold, composed of two halves, that I can reuse to cast the Aluminum. My problem is what material can I use, inside my humble capabilities, to make shuch mold? Sand it´s out of the list, because I need a much better surface finish that sand can give me. I have thought about Plaster. This way, the obvious material to do the mold halves has to be a metal. For this to succeed, I have to find an appropriate metal to do the mold. Copper and it´s alloys seemed to give nice candidates. Then there is Brass, and that reminded me that I had some of it on my pocket. After some search on Wikipedia, I have learned that these coins are made of an alloy composed of 90% Copper, 5% Zinc and 5% Aluminum. I have also found some suppliers who sell bars of similar Brass alloys, and the material doesn´t seem to be very expensive. So, what do you people think of this? Should I try it? What about other Copper alloys, like Cupronickel? Now, and before I dive into any experiments, I think it will be a good idea for me to consult with people like you guys, who have the experience and know-how on the field, to see if my ideas make any sense. Thanks a lot to all of you. if your part drafts anyway
Gene Olson -
Monday, December 31, 2007 - 8:06pm
if your part drafts anyway as it would have to for a metal mold, why not make a metal master a 1/4" thicker in the plane of the mold line and then weld it into a 1/4" match plate and let a commercial foundry sand cast the parts. Much faster, probably cheaper. If you are only making a few pieces, (i'd gues under 10) it might be less hassle to just make a master with draft and let them hand pack it. We just made a sand mold for a guy and on a 16 x 22 - 18# al part the foundry charged him $135 ea for 3 parts. can you acquire and melt the al for that? Gene Olson » reply Cheap casting - design for successful casting
raferguson -
Tuesday, January 1, 2008 - 11:07am
Gene: That sounds amazingly cheap. I imagine the part was simple to cast. I will keep that in mind if I need multiple pieces of something. The challenge, I would think, might be designing a pattern that would work. For people with experience casting, the pattern might be trivial. I would probably need to get advice from the casting shop or somebody here to successfully design a mold that is easy to cast. Once upon a time I was a manufacturing engineer, specializing in design for manufacturability. But that was in the electronics business, so not much help in designing casting patterns. ;-) I know that success depends both on the design of the part, as well as the design of the pattern. I am sure that one could design a part that would be a headache to cast, and perhaps a slightly different part that would be easy to cast. Easy to cast means lower cost and higher quality. But if you don't know the process, you might design a part that would be hard to cast. Richard http://www.fergusonsculpture.com » reply ![]() sand casting
visitor -
Tuesday, January 1, 2008 - 12:44pm
Simon, » reply ![]() Do these artifacts really have to be in aluminum?
visitor -
Tuesday, January 1, 2008 - 3:35pm
What's the ultimate purpose? If they can be in another metal, like pewter, then the problem's a lot easier - you can cast it directly into reusable rubber molds. Andrew Werby » reply plaster is not the same thing as investment.
Sebastien Bailard -
Tuesday, January 15, 2008 - 3:03pm
I've done no metal casting yet myself. Aluminum will probably cause a steam explosion or at least mold failure with plaster. When you heat plaster, the water goes out and the material turns back into gypsum. You may mean investment. Investment is refractory (heat resistant). It's like comparing house cats and tigers. I don't know if a two-part investment mold will work for aluminum or if you need something watertight. If it does work, you could make multiples using casting from a plaster master. You'd probably have to dry them in a furnace out to drive out the excess water. If two-part molds don't work, you could do lost wax casting. I'd probably try do do it via sand casting myself, perhaps using plaster masters. You may want to find someone local to show you the tricks of the craft. You may also want to use pewter or plaster as a test material before switching over to pouring aluminum. If you better mechanical strengh than pewter, have you looked at Zamak, or other zinc-aluminum alloys, aka pot metal? You can pour zamak (or pewter) into certain forumulations of silicone molds. I know you can pour pewter into plaster, dunno about zamak. Make sure to wear protection, the zinc fumes are quite fucking* toxic. *profanity used for emphasis, so that people who are careless about health and safety don't blow this part off. » reply |
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Sounds like fun
Can you sent pics of what you want to cast? Quantity could also be a factor, Tens? would that be like 2 tens or 200 ? Scale of the item is also a factor. Two part or more metal molds frequently result in a parting line that needs to be finished. And have the further disadvantage possibly of being the only item cast per melt. You might consider going to ceramic shell. lost wax process with a rubber mold to reproduce your waxes. There is a point with a machined form where casting them becomes cost saving. But for small runs if you have a machinable form you might be farther ahead to just machine the item. The item will dictate the best method. Economy may play it's part. But there are many here that will be happy to help. Makes a lot of difference whether we are talking about medallions, tea cups or 25 lb door stops. good luck Brad