Welcome to ArtMetal, Scott.

I have a Nimba Gladiator that I use with the horn to my right, so that influences what I'm going to say. If you use the anvil with the horn to your left you would want to adjust accordingly. You've already gone to more effort with yours than I did with my Gladiator. I just used a belt sander and let it go at that. I use mine for blacksmithing so there's a limit to how shiny I want/need the thing.

First, to address your q1uestion about the step on the corners - I'd leave that pretty sharp. Just knock the edge down enough to prevent a cold shut when you use it for creating a sharp transition. That little step in there can turn out to be handy from time to time, you'll see.

I'd radius the edge of the face that is nearest me starting at the transition from the heel and working forward to end up with a radius of about 3/32" or so at the last couple of inches nearest the horn. That gives you a good place to set down transitions in forged work. The remainder of the edges I'd leave fairly tight, though you may find later that you want a bit more radius on some of the edge of the heel so you can work corners on pieces that are too tight to go across the wide face. Your call.

I'd knock the point off the horn, too. That'll be less painful when you run your thigh into it. :-)

Rich

Nimba

I'm with Rich- in fact, 90% of the time, I use mine with the horn on the right, too.
I break the edges just the slightest bit all over, but I didnt mess with the notch between the horn and the face at all.

I didnt do anywhere near the amount of polishing and sanding you did- in fact, mine is getting so full of dings- (ham fisted employee, mostly) that I am about ready to throw it on the milling machine and take off .010 or so.

But I did pinstripe it first thing- you gotta have your priorities, ya know...