Dressing a Nimba

Blacksmithing |

I just got a used Nimba Centurion.
Used but had never been dressed.
So I've;
removed the pitting and hand ground the face flat with lots of water and flat diamond stones,
got the horn back to symmetrical using a portable slack belt grinder and big diamond files,
unsharpened the pritchell and hardy holes,
And I'm increasing the edge radii slowly.

Here's the question;
How would you deal with the transition between the square part of the face and the flat horn?
It's got that weird corner.Nimba Centurion dressing with a slack belt grinderNimba Centurion dressing with a slack belt grinder

Rich Waugh's picture

Welcome to ArtMetal,

Welcome to ArtMetal, Scott.

I have a Nimba Gladiator that I use with the horn to my right, so that influences what I'm going to say. If you use the anvil with the horn to your left you would want to adjust accordingly. You've already gone to more effort with yours than I did with my Gladiator. I just used a belt sander and let it go at that. I use mine for blacksmithing so there's a limit to how shiny I want/need the thing.

First, to address your q1uestion about the step on the corners - I'd leave that pretty sharp. Just knock the edge down enough to prevent a cold shut when you use it for creating a sharp transition. That little step in there can turn out to be handy from time to time, you'll see.

I'd radius the edge of the face that is nearest me starting at the transition from the heel and working forward to end up with a radius of about 3/32" or so at the last couple of inches nearest the horn. That gives you a good place to set down transitions in forged work. The remainder of the edges I'd leave fairly tight, though you may find later that you want a bit more radius on some of the edge of the heel so you can work corners on pieces that are too tight to go across the wide face. Your call.

I'd knock the point off the horn, too. That'll be less painful when you run your thigh into it. :-)


ScottTheSculptor's picture


yep, I imagined uses for the point on the corner - but also uses for a smoother transition. figured I'd ask.

This is my first two horned . . .

The shiny is mostly an artifact
The horn was lumpy and asymmetrical, it still has a factory grinder gouge in the top just outboard of the pritchel (grey smudge in image)
The face had a peen ding that someone started to take an angle grinder to and then thought better of it.
ding is still there but it took a bit to remove the grinder marks and pitting.

after chasing so many art castings it's kinda built in that I'd take it too far :-)
if you have the tools it's hard to resist.

And I already got a bruise and a rip in my jeans from the almost sharp point.
Not so sharp now.

Ries's picture

I'm with Rich- in fact, 90%


I'm with Rich- in fact, 90% of the time, I use mine with the horn on the right, too.
I break the edges just the slightest bit all over, but I didnt mess with the notch between the horn and the face at all.

I didnt do anywhere near the amount of polishing and sanding you did- in fact, mine is getting so full of dings- (ham fisted employee, mostly) that I am about ready to throw it on the milling machine and take off .010 or so.

But I did pinstripe it first thing- you gotta have your priorities, ya know...

Rich Waugh's picture

I gold leafed the

I gold leafed the "Gladiator" on mine. Like you say, some things are priorities. What is interesting is that I just looked at mine and noticed that the logo on mine is on the opposite side from yours - wonder why?


ScottTheSculptor's picture


the nimba website titan page shows the gladiator logo opposite of both the titan and centurion.
gladiator was first nimba so they changed their minds for some reason
I think they just like the horn to the right :-)

Ries's picture

Russell was a lot of things,

Russell was a lot of things, but consistent wasnt necessarily one of them...

And now that the patterns are made, Jim probably doesnt see any need to redo the gladiator to match the other two.

If it aint broke, dont fix it.