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rusting steel/ tin
rredd -
Thursday, January 6, 2011 - 10:23am
rust patina | steel | tin Hi everyone. Im needing a bit advice please on rusting metal quickly. I discovered this site a few weeks ago as I was looking for tips which I found in your forums. I also just want to say it is a fantastic site and I spent ages browsing everyones work rather than doing my own work, lol. You produce some fantastic pieces. Years ago as a student I experimented with different methods to rust metal and remember using household bleach, salt and vinegar. I have been cutting up old food cans which I think are a mix of steel and tin? They rusted just fine with the above method, but there is a limit to the size of metal pieces i get as tins are so small. I have aquired about a dozen steel sweetie tins (eg; roses), which are giving me larger pieces, so have been trying to rust the metal using the same method. Although the rust colour apears quite quickly, it is just washing off the metal!! Any advice would be appreciated; Am I being too impatient? How long do I need to perservere with the treatment? Are there any other solutions I can be using to produce rust quickly? I don't want to be going and getting any toxic chemicals to use, as im quite clumsy and would prob burn myself or something!! thank you Jac  Jac, You can spray steel
Rich Waugh -
Thursday, January 6, 2011 - 3:28pm
Jac, You can spray steel with hydrogen peroxide and put it in a plastic bag to keep it damp and it will rust overnight. The longer you leave it in a moist air environment the deeper the rust will penetrate. Whether you use vinegar, salt, peroxide, urine or muriatic acid, keeping it humid is the key to getting a deep rust. A plastic bag large enough to create a "tent" around it works well, or place the work on a try filled with gravel that you keep wet and toss a tarp over it all. Anything to create a humid environment. Warm and humid is even better. The longer it takes to rust, the more permanent the rust will be. Rich  Ok thanks both. I'll be a
rredd -
Thursday, January 6, 2011 - 3:39pm
Ok thanks both. I'll be a bit more patient and leave it for longer and I'll try sticking them in a plastic bag as well. I had a few test pieces on a tub above the radiator, but then thats prob gonna dry it out too quickly, so i'll try the boiler cupboard instead. I've got plenty metal to practice with. I'm so keen to see the finish I keep poking them which prob doesn't help the rust adhere, lol. I found an old tub with some metal pieces I'd started rusting about 6 months ago or so and had forgotten about. The pieces had almost rusted through and are now wafer thin, with a few holes starting to appear. In fact they are perfect for one of my projects, I so wish I had put more in, as I don't wanna have to wait 6 months for the same effect. thanks for the advice guys. jac  I'm not an expert and I
Josjor -
Friday, January 7, 2011 - 9:05am
I'm not an expert and I didn't stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night, so my terminology may be incorrect. I keep a couple of big tubs with muriatic acid and water in them. I soak the pieces in this solution for at least 24 hours and then remove them for the rusting process. The acid soak etches the metal and gets rid of any scale or coating on the metal. This makes it accept things like vinegar and salt water better for the final rust patina. Neutiquam erro. There's a great thread on
Laral -
Saturday, July 30, 2011 - 10:32pm
There's a great thread on this: http://www.artmetal.com/blog/bob_turan/2009/04/rust_promoter And I made an Instructable based on my own experience with the info from that thread: http://www.instructables.com/id/Produce-a-Rich-Rust-Patina-on-Iron-and-Steel-Safe/ |
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ArtMetal
Hi Jac, Any patina such as
Hi Jac,
Any patina such as rust that develops very quickly will not be very stable, the oxidation just hasn't had enough time to bite into the metal. That's why it washed off. Use whatever methods seems to produce the color of rust you want, but let it sit a few days to bite into the metal. I usually don't keep spraying the rusting agent on after the first couple of applications, but I do continue to spray it with water, usually with a squirt bottle. If you have the material, make an extra one so you can tell when the patina has really set in. After a few days (2-3) wipe a small part of the test piece with your finger or wet rag and see if the patina wipes off, when it doesn't your finished. I'd suggest rinsing the pieces really well with water when your done with the patina process and then spraying with acetone. After that wax, oil, or lacquer the piece to stop the oxidation process.
Jake
Jake Balcom
Mettle Design
Lincoln, NE