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Steel finishing question
Rob Sigafoos -
Friday, December 14, 2007 - 12:04pm
patina | steel Some friends recently pulled what looks like an old operating shaft from a tractor out of and old well on their property. It is a 1" diameter round steel shaft (heavily rusted) with some hardware on one end. I would like to use the hardware end as a base and forge some (yet to be determined) sculptural shape on the other end. I would like to keep the rusted patina on the hardware (base) end and transition to a wire brush finish with a lacquer finish on the forged end. This will be a relatively small piece for indoors. How should I treat the rusted end? Should I just leave it as is, or try to put a lacquer finish over the whole thing? Should I consider a completely different approach? As far as the rusted end is
Jim Cotter -
Friday, December 14, 2007 - 10:35pm
As far as the rusted end is concerned I would go au natural Theres a strong contingent of people that like rust out there. believe you me. Are you the same Rob Sigafoos who is head farrier at New Bolton Center? I remember abour 16 years ago I went to dinner with a veternarian friend of mine and you had some polymethylmethcrylate for fixin horse feet. That stuff was great saved my bacon more than once . Cheers » reply Jim- Many thanks for the
Rob Sigafoos -
Saturday, December 15, 2007 - 1:09pm
Jim- » reply ![]() The color will change with a coating.
visitor -
Friday, December 14, 2007 - 11:47pm
Applying a coating generally changes the color making the appearance darker by saturating the surface and changing the light reflection characteristics. Also, how close the heat gets to the rusted areas is critical. High heat will change the color too. You may want to experiment a little bit. Tom. » reply Tom- Thanks for the advice.
Rob Sigafoos -
Saturday, December 15, 2007 - 1:13pm
Tom- » reply post a picture of the piece
Jim Cotter -
Sunday, December 16, 2007 - 12:21pm
I know what you mean about the wear and tear of horseshoeing, I got out of it back in 1995 and am happy I did. Could you post a picture of the object you are working on? » reply Jim- I will be happy to once
Rob Sigafoos -
Sunday, December 16, 2007 - 12:27pm
Jim- » reply I have been working for this
Jim Cotter -
Sunday, December 16, 2007 - 2:04pm
I have been working for this co http://www.vintagestudios.com/ We take salvaged ironwork and retrofit it into furniture » reply hello rob
feorge -
Monday, December 17, 2007 - 11:20pm
hmmmm...emmaus now the whole metal thing is fun. but did you ever ride a skateboard??? back to your question, i might leave the rusted end alone when rust gets lacquered it tends to absorb and get shiny it just doesn't look so natural... Feorge » reply Feorge- Thanks for the
Rob Sigafoos -
Tuesday, December 18, 2007 - 11:10am
Feorge- » reply You might try sealing the
Gene Olson -
Tuesday, December 18, 2007 - 12:43pm
You might try sealing the rust with sodium silicate. That would lock everything down and then dry to a mat finish. I doubt it would do much to keep the thing from rusting further in the presence of water, but it would probably help keep the rust from chalking off on stuff. Some waxes dry to a matt too, they would be good candidates for sealing. Gene Olson » reply I have used Permalac quite a
blindhogg -
Thursday, February 7, 2008 - 12:44pm
I have used Permalac quite a bit with good success in situations such as this. I beleive I got it from a guy in California that sells all kinds of Patina chemicals. Chris » reply you could clear it with
Curtis Warnes -
Thursday, February 7, 2008 - 9:06pm
you could clear it with poly, it will darken but depending on if you like the bright orange or the chocolate rust, would determine if you should seal it or not. The great thing about poly from my experience is you can torch it off and start over if you don't like it, I do it all the time, it is amazing how different rust colors will change the appeal of a piece. Re-rusting is something you can achieve in a matter of a coulpe days with a simple formula if you are interested I can give it to. I can't take the credit for the formula but it works great and is all house hold items. CW » reply |
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You might try using boiled
You might try using boiled linseed oil. Thin it out with mineral spirits and add a bit of jap drier to speed up the drying process. Thinning the oil out helps it penetrate. After it's sit-up a bit, you can finish with just linseed oil and dryer. It leaves a nice low gloss finish.
I like using linseed oil on anything I can. It's easy to apply, forgiving in nature and inexpensive. It will stay tacky for a few days :-(