I am now back up and running with DSL broadband, so I can post the pictures of the gas saver stand as I promised Mele I would do.

Gas saver stand

Here is the stand with the torch in the "off" position.  Pressing the foot pedal will first lift the gas shut-off arm, then swing the torch tip past the pilot flame, igniting the torch.  The torch will then remain running until the pedal is pressed the opposite way to shut it off.Gas saver on 

The holder for the torch handle is a three-fingered clamp similar to a laboratory clamp, and allows the rig to hold the torch in the proper position whether it has a welding, cutting or rosebud tip on it.

Torch Holder

I find that I use the gas saver in the "normal" mode, that is, with the torch hanging off the shut-off arm, about 80% of the time.  The other 20% of the time though, I find the treadle operation absolutely invaluable for those jobs wher you need three hands to heat and bend a piece, or heat and set a rivet, etc. 

One thing that I think is important to includein any design is a way to hang the torch other than on the shut-off arm.  I don't think that constant pressure on those little needle valve seats can be too good for them, so I keep my torch hanging from a separate hook when not in use. Torch Hook I simply forged a little hook that is fixed to the torch handle with a hose clamp, and I use it to hang the torch on the shut-off arm (as shown), or in a hole in the mounting plate when the rig is not in use. 

torch linkage

You can see the "bell crank" linkage that actuates the arm that pulls down the shut-off hook arm, and where the rod to the foot pedal attaches.  This was all just cobbled together form scrap bits of steel lying around the shop, so you have alot of flexibiity in the design.  My design  was as much the result of coping with the materials on had as it was a conscious decision. :-)

pull-down arm

The base of the stand is nothing more than a salvaged disc brake rotor I found at the dump.  They're generally cat iron and difficult to weld to, so I cut a disc of metal the diameter of the mounting plate and bolt it to the dics, then weld the stand pipe to that.  It gives the base enough mass to be stable, yet is still easy to move around the shop.

I think that pretty much covers it, but if anyone has questions, shoot them at me and I'll make up an answer.  Good luck, and post some pictures of the designs you guys come up with.

Rich