New tool

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For quite some time now I've been wanting a sinusoidal stake.  Every once in a while I actually have a need for one,  and the resto fo the time I just think they're really sexy and have been dying to have one.  A couple of days ago, I actually had a few hours free time so I got busy and made that sinusoidal stake.sinusoidal stakesinusoidal stake  The overall length is about 25" and the large diameter is around 1-3/8", tapering to 3/8" at one end and 3/4" at the other end.  The arms were forged from a piece of automobile axle stock and the remainder was made from A-36 structural steel.  To forge the sinusoidal arms, I first tapered both ends of the axle on the power hammer, and then made a series of alternating bends using adjustable bending pins in the post vise.  (After I finished the stake, I developed a better bending pin jig for the vise - I'll try to get that posted one day before long.)

The anvil shank portion was fabricated and welded to the forged top, after which the whole piece was heat treated to get the 1045H axle stock to about 50 Rc hardness.  The arms were then ground and polished to a mirror finish since I'll probably use this primarily for non-ferrous cold work.  For hot work, I'd still polish it, I just wouldn't expect it to stay that way for  long.  :-)

One feature of this, and all the stakes that I make these days, is the combination mounting shank.sinusoidal stake mounting shank detailsinusoidal stake in post vise   This allows me to use the stake in either my big anvil with a 1" hardy hole, or in a vise, as shown here in my post vise.  If you look closely, you can see that the stake is welded to a piece of 1/2" plate that is the width of the vise jaws and deep enough to just reach the bottom of the jaws.  A piece of 3/4" square bar is welded, on the diamond, tot he bottom edge of the clamping plate.  This acts as a "keel base", preventing the stake from tipping in the vise jaws when in use.  I purely hate having a stake start tipping down with the first hammer blow and then ultimately getting so tipped you can't use it at all and have to stop to re-position it.  This eliminates that issue entirely.  keel base detailkeel base detailNote too, the 1" hardy shank for the anvil is vee'd out deeply  and then welded to the bottom of the keel.  I adjust the length of the hary shank to just touch the screw box in the vise.  This is a handy method for getting it in the vise at the proper level so that the keel does its job.

Now that I have the sinusoidal stake made, I guess I need to get busy and do some anticlastic raising.  Actually, it will probably first get used to do some contouring on a batch of leaves I need to make as examples for a demo I'll be doing later this year.  Leaves just look so much more lifelike if they have a few nice compound curves, don't they?

I hope this inspires a few of you to get busy and make some stakes.  I'll post the details of my spiffy new adjustable bending pin jig for the vise sometime soon, I hope.

 


warren's picture

Nice stake

Rich,

Nice sinusoidal stake, do you think you made it big enough? LaughingNow when you say an axle was it from a car or a truck?  Are all axles 1045H?  I like the way you made it to hold in a vise, I know what you mean by having to readjust.

I made some from HF pry bars. Little small on the diameter now since I have used them.

Also made another raising stake couple of weeks ago out of 1" diameter 1018. Did a super quench on it for a hardened surface and came out great.

Well lets see what you make on it.

 

warren http://www.metalrecipes.com


Rich Waugh's picture

Warren, All axles are not

Warren,

All axles are not 1045H. Some are, some are regular 1045, some are 4140, and other alloys. The one I used was actually from a Nascar race car, so it may have been a more modified alloy than 1045H, but it acted like 1045H. Works for me.

I like axle stock for stakes and similar tools because it will get hard enough to resist deforming and is very tough. Its also not too hard to come up with axles if you hit the car repair shops.

I'm surprised that ou could get the 1018 hard enough, even with Superquench. There really isn't enough carbon to harden. However, if it works that's great. Even without hardening it would be fine for non-ferrous such as copper and silver.


QuiQue's picture

Great idea on having a combo

Great idea on having a combo holder for the post vise and anvil hardy hole! It will be nice to see your use of this handy tool. Looking forward to seeing more photos...


Nic East's picture

Stake

Rich:

Yum! This stake is pure serloin. My Hardy hole is also 1" Square and I think I'll try making one somewhat like this. I will probably make a few modifications, tho. I'll show you later. Nice piece. You could probably sell these if you could figure a price.

Nic East, Jim Thorpe, PA USA
Creativity begins with a novel thought.


Rich Waugh's picture

Nic, I'm looking forward to

Nic,

I'm looking forward to seeing what you come up with. If I was to make another one, I'd use my newest revision of my bending pin set-up and use a wider difference of radii on the curves of the sine waves. I need to make another one that way, starting with larger diameter stock, for some larger forms I want to play with. This was the learning piece.

I probably could see a few stakes like that, ond some others I've done. I'll have to give it some serious thought. I really love making tools, but I really hate repeating myself, too. Too often, doing something you love for money makes yo uquit loving it so much - I had that happen with silversmithing, and I'd hate to have it happen again with tool-making. Still, there are a lot of people who would probably like certain stakes and have no way to make them themselves. I'll think about it.


Nic East's picture

Stakes and Motivations

Rich:
I will study your design and for the nonce, you are my teacher. We crossfertilize our ideas and who knows what might turn up? I believe Creative Play is the road to discovery, especially if travellers on that road have good imaginations.

This weekend I will be taking Fohn Fix's 3-day Class in Forging non-ferrous metals at Peters Valley Craft Center, so I will be seiving his brain for ideas too. I probably will not make a stake as ambitious as yours since I sold my English side-draft forge in 2000. I miss it now since it had a water-cooled tuyer and a really good draft hood into an 8" chimney pipe.

Nic East, Jim Thorpe, PA USA
Creativity begins with a novel thought.


mele miller's picture

Rich, This looks like a

Rich,
This looks like a really interesting thing. OK, I don't know what it is, I mean what you do with it. I don't have a forge yet I just look and dream about all the cool things you guys make. Do you mind explaining what you do with it? I learn alot of great stuff from you!
Mele


Nic East's picture

Anticlastic Raising

Anticlastic Raising is a technique of metal forming whereby sheet metal is formed directly with a hammer on a sinusodial (snake-like) stake. A flat sheet of metal is shaped by compressing it's edges and stretching the center so that the surface develops two curves at right angles to each other. The pattern of the sheet plays a major role in the form that will be achieved, however, many different forms can often be made from the same pattern.

Nic East, Jim Thorpe, PA USA Creativity begins with a novel thought.


Rob Sigafoos's picture

OK, so, Nick and Rich: How

OK, so, Nick and Rich: How do you know all this stuff? When I grow up I hope to be that smart!
Rob


Rich Waugh's picture

Well, too soon we grow old,

Well, too soon we grow old, tool late we grow smart; at least in my case, anyway. I don't know about Nic, but for myself I can only say that I'm probably more what I'd call clever than actually smart. I read and research a lot and try anything and everything that comes to mind and then try to figure out why it either did or didn't work.

I generally learn more from the failures than the successes, of course. Failure provides me with the option (necessity) of studying it to determine what went wrong and thereby learn something. Success teaches us nothing, but serves only to confirm our superstitions. Not that I mind having a success now and then, mind you!

I once tried to learn farriery and discovered that I had no ability for it whatsoever and that the horses frightened me more than just a little bit.


Nic East's picture

Curiosity, Experiment, Discovery, Application and Teaching

Rob:
Since I don't know your age I cannot comment about inexperience except to say that your mind follows your curiosity which should cause you to experiment and learn. As Rich says, we learn from our mistakes and failures. Experiments that come out as expected are simple validations while the real lessons are in unexpected outcomes. Indeed, it is in those surprises that we gain our experiences and sometimes even wisdom.

A good foundational and ongoing education is the basis of acquiring the best and fastest applicational information. I have a background in Physics, Quantum Theory, Industrial and Graphic Design plus 13 years working for the telephone company as an analyst. We all get our educations either formally or down in the trenches and who can say which is more valid?

Nic East, Jim Thorpe, PA USA
Creativity begins with a novel thought.


Rich Waugh's picture

Nic has described

Nic has described anticlastic raising quite well below, and that is one thing I'll use it for in a general sense. As I noted, I'll use it to put compound curves in forged leaves to make them look more natural. It is also a handy tool for turning lips on spouts and vessels, and for swaging small stock as well. I find it handy for dong quick swaged down sections in pipe, like when making bamboo nodes or necked-down steps to isolate stock for later tapering on the power hammer.

I'm not a purist about tools - I'll use whatever might work to perform a given function, regardless of the intended use of the particular tool. You can get mentally hamstrung by thinking of a hammer as only something that you hit things with. A hammer is also a luseful top tool, some have features that can be used as swages or dies, etc. Good to have options.


Nic East's picture

Top tools

Rich:
Sometimes I "double-pein" a texture using a dapping tool in the vise and a ball pein hammer on top.

Nic East, Jim Thorpe, PA USA
Creativity begins with a novel thought.


Frank Castiglione's picture

Kewl Tewl

Hi Rich,
An artfully made tool indeed.
Frank


Rich Waugh's picture

Thanks for all the nice

Thanks for all the nice comments on the stake. I'll try to get a few more little projects posted as I go along. Too often, I forget to take process photos, even though I have a camera dedicated to the shop alone. I just get carried away working and hate to stop, even to take pictures.


mele miller's picture

You may know that I do alot

You may know that I do alot of botanical stuff. I would really like to see a picture of what you are talking about with leaves.
When you get a minute.
Thanks, Mele


visitor's picture

Very tasty indeed

What a great tool.

The sinusoidal stake I made began with a tapered drift punch. Used a torch to provide localized heat where I wanted to bend the taper. Worked just fine.

Fred


gillis's picture

Hi Rich

I would like to know what this tool is used for? You know what they say: It's better to look stupid and ask than to not ask and remain stupid! lol!

gillis


Rich Waugh's picture

As noted in the posts above,

As noted in the posts above, a sinusoidal stake is used for anticlastic raising and other work with sheet stock where you are trying to create compound-curved forms. Think of it as a series of "U" swages of differing radii and cross section and you'll understand, I think.


warren's picture

An Axle

Rich, Okay it came from an axle. And it must of been a rear end axle. SmileHere is a front axle 

Truck axleTruck axle

I got it a couple of years ago and made these stakes for raising.   A little use on them. Not sure the steel but sure does work nice. It clamps very nicely in a vise.axle stakeaxle stake

 

 

 

 

I might stop at a truck stop on the way to the Shindig and see if they have any broken rear axles. Since it is at Elmers Roush's shop, well he makes some beautiful hammers and the steel is right for a hammer head. 

warren http://www.metalrecipes.com


visitor's picture

I have always called then

I have always called then serpentine stakes and yours looks great! I don't work with steel and made mine in a workshop years ago. I brought it to the shindig this year along with some drift punchs and was lucky enough to have Elmer forge them into serpentine stakes for me. I need to do some sanding on them and will then take several to the art center where I teach part time.
They are useful tools.

marilyn