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Problem with Mokume Gane
Quelmo -
Saturday, May 15, 2010 - 8:35am
Jewelry Hello. Firstly I'd like to say hello. I'm from Poland, so sorry for my English. I've got a problem with solder a gold. My adventure witm Mokume Gane began with silver and copper, and everything was OK. I created a great pattern etc. But, now, when I try to do the same with gold - fail. I use 14K gold (red, and yellow) Thanks, Marcin ![]() Thanks, but now I try to do
visitor -
Saturday, May 15, 2010 - 9:56am
Thanks, but now I try to do ring with 2 types of gold 14K(red,yellow)not silver with gold. Maybe the problem is, that the gold isnt clean? I dont know. With silver I havent got problem, but with gold-yes. How to clean the sheet of gold? Thanks for respond ![]() You need to clean the gold
Rich Waugh -
Saturday, May 15, 2010 - 4:02pm
You need to clean the gold with very fine wet-or-dry sandpaper and distilled water, then wash with soap and water followed by rinsing with distilled water several times. To achieve solid state diffusion bonding requires sufficient heat, adequate pressure and time - all based on chemically clean metal. To keep the metal free of any oxides, many makers do all their mokume bonding in an inert atmosphere or vacuum. This enables them to use no flux and less heat, provided that they have sufficient pressure and enough time. Rich ![]() Hi! Thanks Rich for your
Quelmo -
Sunday, June 6, 2010 - 12:37pm
Hi! Marcin ![]() Marcin, To get more contrast
Rich Waugh -
Sunday, June 6, 2010 - 3:15pm
Marcin, To get more contrast in the red and yellow golds, you may need to alloy your own gold first. If you can get 18K red gold and then add enough pure copper to bring it down to 14K you will get a deeper red color. For the Yellow, use 14K pale yellow gold or 18K yellow. After bonding the two (or more) pieces, finish making the item and then heat it slowly while watching for color change in the red gold - it should develop a deeper red oxide color but the yellow gold shouldn't. I made something similar to this work once years ago and that's the way I remember doing it. Hope it helps. Rich ![]() Thanks! I heat it slowly and
visitor -
Monday, June 7, 2010 - 4:19am
Thanks! I heat it slowly and red gold is more red(sometimes black!), but when the ring is on the finger(for example for 1 week), the intensive red colour change for light. I use butane gas, maybe I should to use other? How can I secure the ring after oxidation?(wax?) and last question -can I see patern on gold rings made by the professional jeweler for example for one meter?(sorry for my English, but I hope you understund what I mean)Maybe gold rings never be similar with contrasting like copper and silver. I know the colours of metals are other. I'm just thinking how to take full advantage of gold colour. Thanks for your help Rich, Marcin ![]() Marcin, I'm sorry but I
Rich Waugh -
Monday, June 7, 2010 - 7:00am
Marcin, I'm sorry but I don't understand what you mean by pattern on gold rings for one meter. Perhaps you can clarify that somehow. As for keeping the oxidation color of the red gold, I don't think it can be done successfully when the ring is worn. Perspiration, abrasion and washing the hands will remove any coating you might put on it. If you need it to be permanently darker you will have to change the alloy to one that is inherently darker. Perhaps you could make one of the Japanese alloys that are known for great contrast. Shakudo is one that comes to mind. You can do a Google search for "Mokume Gane Alloys" and probably find shakudo, kuromido, shibiuchi among others. SHakudo, a 97% copper/ 3% gold alloy will produce a very deep brownish black when oxidized. Kuromido, an alloy comprised of 99% copper and 1% arsenic, will yield a very deep red color. Shibiuchi is a silver alloy comprised of 75% copper and 25% silver. There are suppliers in Japan who can provide these alloys already compounded for you. All of these combine well with 18K yellow gold. I re-read some of Steve Midgett's excellent book "Mokume Gane, a Comprehensive Study" and noted that he recommends sticking with 18K or even 22K gold when possible, since the 14K is too hard to manipulate well with the softer copper alloys. I'd highly recommend you get a copy of that book if you can find it there. I tisfilled with color pictures of different patterns and the process to achieve tham. Rich |
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Marcin, I think the problem
Marcin,
I think the problem is not in the soldering or the solid state diffusion bonding, but rather it is in the rolling out. 14K gold and sterling silver have very different levels of malleability. When you roll it out or forge it, the two stretch at different rates and tear the joints apart. You might be better off with 18K gold, a sit is a bit more malleable than the 14K.
Good luck with it!
Rich