Brad,

Please post those pix... your work sounds awesome! Thanks for the advice... I was just about to post the same question Pam did. Pam are you psychic?

J.R.

J.R.
no.... you smart ass. I am not psychic. more psychotic.
I think this is where I add.....
LOL

I would silver solder it with an actylene/air torch and then pickle it with a piece of steel in the solution. This would plate a layer of copper over the silver solder and completely hide it.

marilyn

If you'd like a pretty good color match for the copper, your only recourse is to TIG weld it.

I attach leaves and stems under abour 6 power magnification. There is no excess solder at the joint. These pcs also get a rather heavy patina. I also use a little torch. It's just as hot as any other oxy fuel torch just one heck of alot smaller. I hold the leaves with my fingers when I solder stems on to them. It's fast and hot in a small intense area. Pcs leave my fingers directly to the pickle pot. From there they get steam cleaned, spend a little time in the ultrasonic and the other end gets a touch with a rubber wheel only where the solder will go. When there are 30 stemed leaves they are ready to be attached to stems. If all of this seems a little tedious, it's a matter of perspective. I find it far less tedious than pave' or channel setting russian cut two pointers. My approach is from the goldsmiths bench. For me it's all about the details. Here's a magnifier so you can enjoy them!
Next steps for me are either a Sparkie or the laser of my dreams. Brad

I like phos copper rod. The rod melts pretty easy and no flux. There are few different levels with more silver and more expensive. But the Harris "O" is the favaroite among many. http://www.harrisproductsgroup.com/consumables/alloys.asp?id=31

You can call your local welding supplier and have them order you a pound. If you use just a little bit it will blend in with the copper. It has a copper color to it after you weld and pickle. If you sand off the excessive it will leave a nickle color. It will accept all patinas and you can not see the weld. If you want a contrast then just braze using standard brazing rod and flux. Any powdered brazing flux will work. You just need to make sure to remove any flux so that it will not salt around the weld where flux was left. What you may want to keep in mind is that if you have to do any more annealing than you cannot use solder and phos copper will also start to flow. If I run into that type of situation I braze. warren

Burnishing with a polished steel tool also works well for long thin shapes. Tumble finishing with steel shot is also an option. Glass beads may be a viable option as a media. Personally I have not found taking the hardness out of the leaf to be a problem. Because the leaf stem is thinner than the pcs it joins and flexes long before any stress is applied to the joints. I also like to manipulate the leaves after they are attached and full assemply of many flowers accomplished. I appreciate the softness and workability when compared to the just out of the rolling mill hardness. Enough from me. Brad

One reason that I don't have problems with the hardness of metal at the joint is because I do not butt weld. A lap seam at both joins puts more surface area into the join there by creating a very strong join. Sorry about the one more comment. Brad

Pam, regarding Brad's last comment... told you so. You know who