COPPER TO ARMATURE WELD

Hi fellows;
I`m trying to figure out what material to use for armature of a 3/16 copper sheet outdoors piece,provided I have Tig weld and oxyacetylene only.Why 3/16 and not thinner, that`s the material we have available neither more or less.So my concern is what material to use as armature (mild steel, stainless...) so I could weld, as the sheet sections are forged over the armature. My guess is that I could weld with Tig or brace with bronze if I use mild steel. However, if the armature is stainless will the copper-stainless weld be strong, and what rod to use? Now, that`s not really the trouble,but what would happen from inside out as there might be some galvanic corrosion on steel bars of armature. Using Cu bars in armature would be extremely expensive. Could I expect the Tig weld bead on copper sheet to go at least half way deep at the joints? Probably, some of this questions simply reveal my inexperience with Tig... Thank you guys for any tech tips. nelson.


Rich Waugh's picture

I would use stainless for

I would use stainless for the armature and TIG braze the copper to it with silicon bronze rod, as I believe Ries Niemi once suggested. If Ries says it, you can count on it being accurate.

As for TIG welding the 3/16" copper, sure you can get a full penetration weld, but it will take some fair amount of juice to do it. Copper has a very high rate of heat abstraction and you have to overcome that quickly or you just slowly heat the general area until you have a puddle wher you wanted to have solid metal. So you weld it much the same way you do aluminum, by jumping on the pedal with both feet at the start, and then backing down to a level that will sustain a puddle but not blow out. You're going to want to practice a fair bit on scrap to get the feel for it.


don thibodeaux's picture

Nelson, You might try to

Nelson,

You might try to revit copper to your armature, then weld copper to copper.

Don T.


Gene Olson's picture

Nelson, That is pretty thick

Nelson,
That is pretty thick copper.
How big is this thing going to be anyway?
Do you need an armature?

Someplace else on the site I posted a copper stainless weld pic of a joint that has been outside in MN for the past 10 yrs or so. The nice thing about copper and stainless is that they have almost the same thermal expansion rates.

That thick of copper may crack on you if you don't preheat.

Gene Olson
Sculptor
Elk River, MN


raferguson's picture

3/16 is thick

I TIG weld quite a bit of copper, 0.040 inch thick, and usually have my machine set for 90 amps. With 3/16", you might need 400 amps or so, which I do not have access to. I don't think that a 250 amp TIG welder is going to be close to adequate, a 350 might work.

Anyway, due to the massive heat requirements, you are likely to need to preheat. Brazing is lower temperature, so probably more practical.

I would probably go for a copper or bronze armature, but I think that the suggestion that no armature is needed is a good one. Even if you need an armature to build it, you might not need it once it is complete.

Richard

http://www.fergusonsculpture.com
Sculptures in copper and other metals


Gene Olson's picture

I'm not sure where it was

I'm not sure where it was set anymore. but we did 3/16 with my 300 amp machine. It was a long time ago.
I'd guess it was about 250-80 with a 6-800 degree preheat.

He may get by.

Gene Olson
Sculptor
Elk River, MN


NELSON's picture

This is a 30 ft high,and

This is a 30 ft high,and about 2.5 ft diameter tree project.Although the client got the 3/16" Cu sheet,if I see too much trouble surely will have to ask him for thinner material(if I use what he has it`ll be a plus!).I do know I can make it no matter how high or thick,but it`s a matter of making it efficiently,so my labor costs,will not unforseenably shoot sky high and I go belly up.Preheating so I can TIG weld doesn`t sound like fun on such a high structure. Preferably I rather Mig weld and clean up spatter,but no option will be discarded at this point.Further analysis has to be made.How is Mig vertical welding on copper? and if I used stainless as armature,can it be MIG welded to Cu sheet?In regards to welding,I have welding to armature and welding the sheet at joints. This brings me to one big dilema:armature material.If I used mild steel,how long would it last outdoors before galvanic corrosion does its job? Would that sealed(welded) environment inside, be conducive to corrosion beyond some rust? I`m think about the oxygen limitation that shall take place inside. Won`t that hinder Fe oxidation from oxygen starving? I guess this worries me more than thermal expansion rates,for once it`s all assambled, I don,t believe it`ll be an issue to worry about.Cu armature might be a consideration,but gee...I`ve got check the cost `cause that`ll use up some pounds of Cu bar huh! And what about armature strength if I used Cu bar?Would a sound 1/2" Cu round bar structure be ok if I considered that option?Gene,you mention possible cracking.Do you think that if I heat forge(moderate temperature)the Cu sheet and MIG weld, it will crack? I guess that thickness poses risk on that matter,but got try working about this material we already have.Won`t the forge heat anneal the Cu releasing tensile strength as it softens?I know I`ll have to reharden later on to the extent I might.Main concerns:1)Cu thickness.2)Corrosion of armature.It just occured to me,if a made the structure with steel not stainless,and zinc flame spray it, then weld Cu sheet on? Guess: steel+Zn flame spray cost vs. stainless cost! Sounds too complicated? 3)Armature material vs weld to Cu sheet 4)Process to cut left over sheet to make ends meet and weld. I don`t want to end up with vertical and horizontal seam lines that`ll show like patches all over.So that brought me to hand plasma cutting.Rich I remember your telling me how messy plasma is.Why did they build such sofisticated cutting device? Another use?I ignore how this may work.Will I have to end up disc cutting the Cu sheet? As I ask before Rich,considering the scale of this project,I thought I`d better be aware of amount of Mig wire required if chosen.And last but not least the main question remains in my mind:5) considering the above, do I go MIG or TIG ? Construccion time is a big issue here, and everywhere!
Hey, let me tell you,I need some precise help to stop uncertainties and go on with project,but I will not start till I feel safe to good degree! THANKS FOR SUPPORT GUYS
Nelson.


Gene Olson's picture

lost post

I wrote a long answer and the ether ate it.
here is a digest version:

try sil bronze mig. Cu to Stainless

copper has high coeff. of expansion going solid >> liquid and almost no tensile strength as it solidifies it will crack if the parts can't move easily. (or are preheated and you don't want to do that if you don't have to on a piece that big. I don't think you could keep it hot, and if you did, you would be grilled.)

Sil bronze on the other hand has no preheat in the spec.

Test weld some pieces in a frame so they can't move. I think you can mig the cu together. If it works for you, sell the client of bronze "accents" and feature the welds.

Gene Olson
Sculptor
Elk River, MN


NELSON's picture

Ok Gene. The silicon bronce

Ok Gene. The silicon bronce on stainless-copper is clear. Now,copper to copper no chance of MIG welding 3/16" sheet w/0 preheat ?? No copper wire option to MIG it? unless I get grilled ? Thanks so much. I hope I might be able to give a valuable piece of advice too. Gee dat`s a tough race,ain`t it? Nelson.


warren's picture

Big Project

Nelson,
I have been pondering over the project you are asking about and wow! lots of copper. I do have some questions for you just to may help with your solutions.
Okay you say you do not want to see it patch worked, so how are you going to finish, bark?
Next, you are thinking of using 420lbs sheet of copper, and if my rough math is correct about 4 sheets just for the trunk, do you have some way of moving around?
What size of spread of the tree top, how big and how long of branches are you going to make........weight?
I made one copper tree (see my website and look at the Tree of Knowledge gallery). Only ten feet high and about that in diameter. Weighed around 780 lbs. On my tree I started with 1/8 sheet copper than 1/16 and 32 oz for the little branches.
No need for a armature because if you make the trunk and branches kind of rippled, think of corrugated steel and how much stronger that it is than just a sheet it has a lot of strength. I have climbed my fat 220 lbs on the branches and no problem.
For welding I used the O/A torch and Harris O phos copper rod, 75lbs worth. This also aloud me to give the tree some texture.
For cutting with the sheet laid on the ground (crap that 1/8 was too heavy to move around) regular circular saw with a plywood blade works. Also saber saws work good.

Now if you have really long branches than maybe you may need an armature, but working copper sheet branches and trying to match the shape of the armature sounds like too much work.
Wish you luck and happy welding.

warren
http://www.metalrecipes.com


NELSON's picture

Warren let`s say we forget

Warren let`s say we forget the 3/16" Cu sheet and talk about 1/8" from now on. Don`t you use TIG welding at all on your copper work? How`s the strength and color on that Harris Ophos Cu rod? Frankly,I like the texture effect of the O/A torch welding the sheet.What about the penetration of your bracing.You seem to know about numbers on the topic. Any idea aproximately,of the pounds Cu fill rod in 10 meters weld of 1/8" sheet? Warren, I`ve done bracing, but never straight enough to calculate O/A gas consumption per meters or hours of welding.It`s very important to know a stimate,because in this case ,metal+labor+gas will be important factors to consider towards the total cost of the work. Did you ever use a "copper color silver solder" for copper? Warren thanks for your imput! Your copper tree is beautifull and well,I hope you don`t mind but for now and probably a long time I`ll remember you as the "Dragon man"
I love it! nelson.


warren's picture

"copper color silver solder" for copper?

Nelson,
The "copper color silver solder" for copper is the Harris 0 rod. It is really not a silver solder though because of the "0" means no silver therefore the price is reasonable. If you contact the the Harris welding site http://www.harrisproductsgroup.com/consumables/alloys.asp?id=31
I am sure they could help you figure out how much per cost per meter of weld.

And no I have never used the TIG in my work, I do not own one currently.
warren
http://www.metalrecipes.com


NELSON's picture

Hi Richard: Excuse me it

Hi Richard: Excuse me it took a while to answer your suggestions. Actually,I wanted to have more information on hand before I could even understand well the tecnical advise I was getting from all of you guys.Well,a this point the armature material and welding to sheet is taken care of.
After been confused, not because I didn`t trust the advices I`ve got on this site,but due to implications beyond the straight advantages of one or another weld process, that at the time needed more analyzing before I could make up my mind.All this is a learning process previous to the hands-on experience coming up! Although the client got already 3/16" copper sheet on hand,we definitely don`t want to fry up ourselves preheating so I talked my client into getting a more reasonable thickness (1/8) for the job.Don`t you think a 300 amp TIG welder will suffice? Got to stay away from bronze color though,if the sheet is pure Cu,then I suppose I oughtta use some copper alloy rod.Have you use the same copper as fill when you TIG it? My doubts are now about the sculpture skin made of Cu sheet and how to TIG the joints with least color difference.I`ve been told about some copper color silver soldering,but how would that material behave outdoors compared to the copper sheet? Thanks for your help.Nelson.


NELSON's picture

Hi Richard:you mentioned

Hi Richard:you mentioned that you do quite a bit of TIG welding copper. If you were to TIG 1/8" Cu sheet with Harris O Phos copper rod,and the weld would be overlap at an average speed, how far say one lbs of rod, would take you welding (feet wise).I know it may sound dumb, but I can calculate the aproximate length of beads of welding for a proyect.If you don`t use that type rod, any other`d be okay just to have an idea. Does the rod length take that far laying a bead? Namely, if the rod is two feet long, would and average bead (one pass)get to be that long? Richard, any idea as to amount of rod and in regards to gas, any idea as to how much welding (feet of average beads) from one of those about 5 ft gas cylinders. Any help is greatly appreciated. nelson