STAINLESS STEEL FOR EXPERTS

Hi fellows:
I`m a new member to this great site.It`s a real joy to run into artwork,faces, and names, and say hey: "I`ve seen this work, or heard that name before somewhere..." and it`s a thrill to see how some of you guys up there give advice to those down here learning and toiling, to some day also be able to handle a bit help too! Recently, I mail a request for advice to a very important consulting authority in the metal industry, I was surprised to receive anwers and referrals from him, and surprisingly we even talk about matter relating to kindness,etc. For lets face it,our careers,whatever they might be are important, but lets not forget an often forgotten human principle in life: love and sharing, with more of that the world would be a better place to live. Slowly but surely, I`m switching from a Plant Science major work, to art. It`s been some time now that I left agriculture and started doing iron and wood work for a living.It ain`t easy, when one doesn`t have a solid academic background in art work.On the other hand,I realice how far a few basic drawing classes, a welding ag class, and a strong commitment to learn and work hard, can take you! Some of you know how time consuming and heart-breaking the trial-and-error method turns out oftentimes. That`s life buddy! Why don`t you stop bla,bla,bla and get to the point man! I say ok buddy... The point is I`m working on a sculpture proyect to be installed 100 yard from seawater, using SS 316L sheet 1 mm thick, heat forged and welded to a basic squeleton structure shaped to a designed figure. A while back I heat forged some SS sheat (don`t know the grade),and with basic brushing the piece looked nice, but the darn thing showed rust weeks later. Holly crap! What happened to my stainless condition? After investigating I learned a couple things; however,I believe there`s nothing like the hands-on experience and advice from you guys. It`s the pitting due to carbide depositing showing as burnt brownish color on it, as well as the loss of corrosion resistance in salty environment that I`m worring about. Will this happen to my SS 316L work? Should I pickle treat afterwards to passivate the steel? What the heck can I do? Or will the 316L withstand all the heat and pounding abuse?
THANKS GUYS FOR YOUR ADVISE!


Rich Waugh's picture

Welcome to ArtMetal! A

Welcome to ArtMetal!

A couple of bits of advice on your stainless steel project. The 316L is definitely the right alloy for marine exposure. To minimize carbide precipitation rusting, passivating and/or electropolishing are a good idea. Passivation is possible to do yourself, using citric acid. I believe a 20% solution of citric acid in water at about 140 degrees willdo the job. You need to pickle the thing for an hour or so to get the results you need.

If there is an outfit in your area that does electropolishing, they can do the pickling ofr you, probably. Electropolishing willalso "passivate" the surface, as it etches off the surface, leaving fresh metal.

When you wire wheeled the previous piece, did you use a stainless steel wheel? If not, you contaminated the surface by mechanically wiping iron onto it from the wire wheel. The same thing happens with your hammer and anvil - they deposit iron on the surface. Thorough wire wheeling with a stainless steel wire wheel should remove all contamination from the forging process, though.

The guy who probably know the most about this is Ries Niemi, the Seattle area sculptor. You might look him up and ask him, he's a very helpful guy.


NELSON's picture

STAINLESS STEEL CORROSION

Happy New Year to you Rich, and to all of you!

Well, I just want to thank you for having taking your time to give some advice, a good and long answer. great !!!!
Nelson L-


Glen Jones's picture

Stainless contamimnation

Hi Nelson,
welcome to art metal. Another area to make sure of is that you are not working around carbon steels while working on SS.
Idealy you should have a secondary area to work for your SS work. I work with SS and mild steel in the same area and with the same tools but I clean all tools and work benches before commencing on any SS work.

Cheers
Glen
Down Under


gibblewabble's picture

Rust on stainless

I have worked for years with stainless steel and Mild steel contamination is quite easy to deal with. As stated in the other replies it is easy to contaminate stainless with other ms objects, it has caused one company I worked for tens of thousands of dollars when they had to send guys over seas to remove rust from the breweries we had made. You can remove it by using pickling paste it will eat the contamination but leave the stainless, it will leave the surface a dull grey but this can be changed with an abrasive or wire wheel. Always use stainless steel wire wheels and never use an abrasive that has been used on miild steel or you will recontaminate the project.

good luck, I love working with stainless.