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Soldering Copper pipe to galvanized steel
mrglass2626 -
Thursday, April 17, 2008 - 9:57pm
soldering | welding Hello, Does anybody have any words of wisdom for soldering galvanized steel wire (gauge 16) to 1/2 inch copper pipe (standard plumbing type)? I am currently using: - Bernzomatic pen torch (small flame torch) I am cleaning the pipe with a file so that it is nice and bright/new metal but still having difficulty getting the two to bond well. I suspect it has something to do with the different temperature absorption properties of each metal but unsure. I am new to this soldering/fabrication. Do I need to heat the copper first/last, steel first/last? Or are these two metals just not a good match - I got the galvanized steel because it was about $6 for 200ft at home depot - it solders well to itself but obviously need to attach it to the copper to be of use. I am building the frame for a Rolling Ball Sculpture similar to this one: Just want to attach the track (galvanized steel wire) to the frame (copper pipe) in a clean manner. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!  soldering
visitor -
Friday, April 18, 2008 - 10:56pm
You can tin both pieces where you want them to be attached and then assemble them. The copper is going to pull all the heat and the zinc coating is going to burn off the iron wire. Copper wire is likely too soft and so is the iron. What do you think? Tom. » reply  I don't have any advice to
Rob Sigafoos -
Saturday, April 19, 2008 - 8:34am
I don't have any advice to offer, other than to warn you very strongly about heating the galvanized steel. I did some welding on some galvanized steel (about 30+ years ago) before I realized the dangers. I don't ever remember being as sick and for as long as I was following that experience. I was lucky that no permanent damage (I hope) occurred. » reply  First, you need to clean the
Rich Waugh -
Sunday, April 20, 2008 - 9:03am
First, you need to clean the galvanized wire thoroughly. It usually has a film of oil/flux on it from the galvanizing process, if it is dip galvanized. Wipe it well with a Scotchbrite pad and some alcohol. Then "tin" it first by heating and applying a coating of your solder. Do the same with the copper pipe and then solder them together. You'll need to concentrate your heat on the copper pipe, as it will absorb much more heat than the wire. I'd suggest that you get some liquid flux that contains ammonium chloride. » reply  What Rich said.
Gene Olson -
Sunday, April 20, 2008 - 3:23pm
What Rich said. We are not talking about burning zinc here guys. Zinc melts at ~780 F. and can be "tinned" onto the steel (like in hot dip galvanizing) If you are trying to solder and you have the zinc hot enough to be burning, you have already lost the battle; your surface is no longer clean, it is covered with oxides. Plain 50/50 lead solder should work fine. Clean, clean, clean flux, brush as you work pre-tin the contact points if you can. You want the material to heat up slowly and enough to melt the solder onto it. Heat the material, not the solder (at least not at first and then only if you need to to fill gaps) Here is some zinc, soldered. Restoring "Liberty" and "Justice" These pieces were made of thin zinc sheet with a piece of stovepipe up the center as an armature. The arms had wrought iron rods forged to fit and were attached to the stove pipe with a clamp collar. On the Kinetic front, here is one I did 30 years ago and another that was commissioned in 1995. Gene Olson Sculptor Elk River, MN » reply Thanks! Just checked back in
mrglass2626 -
Wednesday, May 7, 2008 - 8:34pm
Thanks! Just checked back in on here and wanted to say thanks for all of the help given! Very useful information and have applied it to my work with great success. First project has been a steep learning curve but have learnt so much - can't wait to finish this project and start on the second, should be a lot more professionally finished! Will post once complete. MrGlass. My thanks, one and all. » reply |
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Copper wire
Would be easier