Yep, that's who I get my mica from also. I have them cut sheets into 9 inch by 36 inch strips for lamp shades. It's easy to form this mica if you use a hot gun. You know, the paint striping hot air guns. You could probably use a hair dryer set on high. Temperature to bend the mica is in the 110 degree Fahrenheit range. If you get the mica too hot, the shellac will become brittle. So it's best to keep the heat down to just enough to bend the mica.

Thank you Mark, Rich & QQ for your replies.  I had found Asheville-Schoonmaker and have ordered their sample pack but saw no info on bending & forming sheets. Have now sent them an email asking for info.  I have 10 fixtures to do, ranging in size from 18x36 to 6x12, some half-cone shaped wall sconces, some trough-shaped ceiling pendant fixtures so I think the hair dryer approach may be a good one for at least the largest piece.  Can't see it fitting in our oven. I am excited about using mica as I have wanted to try it before and didn't get round to it.  Will also be easier handling mica rather than hand-made glass shades in our shop for fitting etc - glass in a blacksmith shop ~~~ shudder ~~~  :-D

Lynda,

Glad we could be of help to you.

I cut the mica with either my table saw or a pair of shark multi-purpose kitchen shears, depending on the gauge. When cutting on the table saw, it helps to make a Z-shaped piece of sheet metal to clip on the fence so the thin sheet doesn't ride under the fence and give you a wacky cut. You can also cut the stuff just fine with a sharp craft knife.

For bending, I use a heat gun on its low setting and it still takes some care not to over heat. Overheating can also be a concern in some closed fixtures, so you need to plan for adequate ventilation and/or use compact fluorescents instead of incandescent bulbs.

If the mica is going to be where it can be handled, I'd recommend that you give it a quick sanding with 320 grit paper after forming and then shoot a coat of lacquer on it to gloss it back up.

Good info Rich. I'd like to add that I use a paper shear like you get at Office Depot to cut the mica. The only problem if you are cutting lots of mica, that the shear will get gummed up and it's a pain to clean the gum off of the shear. I think you will find that whatever you use to cut the mica, it will eventually get a sticky gum on the blades and will cause problems in the cuts.

Good point about the gum, QuiQue. The shellac-based composite sheet does leave a gummy residue which can be cleaned off with denatured alcohol or lacquer thinner. I use those cheapie one dollar scissors from Harbor Freight and just heave them when they get too nasty to work nicely. (grin)

I haven't had a problem with the table saw getting nasty, but I haven't cut a thousand feet with it, either. It cuts lots of other stuff too, which probably keeps the gum scraped off the blade.

Hi Everyone,
I'm so glad Lynda asked this question. I have always loved mica shades(having worked for antique dealers)For some reson I thought it wasn't produced any more. I will print this information out for future reference as I'd like to incoporate it into some lighting pieces. You guys are great. Thanks for all the useful information, Janet R.

Along with the sample kit AS sends you will be instructions on how you can shape it. Also, call them with any questions. They are a good outfit!

Isn't Artmetal a great resource?? I will be saving this info too.  Thanks for all the comments folks, you have helped me and my client make an informed investigation of mica over glass.

Lynda