I find that the dark oxides protect the surface well once a satin marine varnish is applied .... the less you wire brush the better ... just clean everything with hot soapy water and a nylon brush .... sun dry and varnish .... the client just needs to top up the surface every two or three years.

Alternatively .... shot blast and hot zinc spray then rub a graphite paint into the surface and bring up highlights with a soft emery ... finish with varnish. You can also introduce some red stains and even a hint of blue.

Where to bend next ... www.metalgarden.ca

I've had good luck with the permalac satin. Better to use a number of light coats for best adhesion. I've used a lot of their flattened permalac, but found I was getting a number of fine white spots on the dried surface. Like the flattening agent was not fully in solution. I had mixed it well, but noticed a white residue in the empty gallon container when it dried. ?

web site: www.johnesimms.com

Thanks Don, Guiseppe & Simmsie for the info. 

Don did you mean Imron?? Couldn't find Emron ( of course lots of Enron! )  Does it need any prep? How long does it stood up to exterior weathering in your experience?

Guiseppe, I might try the hot soapy wash down when the weather warms up!  I am trying to find something that will last longer than 2/3 yrs and as I understand it Permalac should be good for many more.

Simmsie, thanks for the info re flattened Permalac.  Do you do any surface prep to clean off scale and anti-spatter spray - if that applies to your work??  Have you had any experience with Permalac standing up to the weather over a few years?

Thanks,

Lynda

Metcalfe Roush Forge & Design www.metcalferoush.com Lynda Metcalfe Jewelry www.lyndametcalfe.com

I've been using simple household spray cleaners like Fantastic. I've tried a lot of degreasers etc, but found them unnecessary unless the surface is really oiley as is cold rolled steel. I often do a final onceover with Windex, which doesn't leave any film as many cleaners do.

For darkening steel, i use Birchwood-Casey's steel blackener with great results. http://www.birchwoodcasey.com/metal/index.html

You should talk with Debbie at Sculpt-Nouveau about Permalac. www.sculptnouveau.com

web site: www.johnesimms.com

Don, read your response. I am interested in keeping rust from steel from staining wood and stone. can i coat it with Imron? Is it a clear coat? how long do you think it would hold up? Thanks, Rich

rrob,

It is a two part clear coat that last for 10 years and up. It comes in colors, also. You can get it at an automotive paint supply outlet. I've used it on my own pieces and on some very large outdoor restoration projects. I've used many clear-coat products and nothing last like this stuff. I use it on all the hair salons and bar nightclubs I've done and never had a problem. The only thing you need to concern yourself with is it will kill you. You must protect yourself from the fumes. Good luck.

Don T.

For ironwork, or any metal really, powdercoating is a poor choice for exterior work. It is prone to chipping and cannot be touched up. Once the integrity of the surface has been breached in any way, water will creep under and bein the rusting process. Since the rust molecule is three times the size of the iron molecule, you get swelling that further deteriorates the surface.

I work in the tropics on an island, and it is always tough to beat rust completely. Bare, shiny steel will rust within a couple of years, regardless of what clearcoat you use. Even Imron, though it holds up better than most. I haven't ried Permalac, as there is no local dealer.

The problem is adhesion. Smooth metal is a poor surface for adhesion. That's why sandblasting is recommended; it provides "tooth" for the paint to adhere.

Clear coatings are the weakest, because they have no pigments to block UV, and thus are prone to UV degradation.

My preference for steel is to sandblast or acid pickle, neutralize, do a phosphate conversion process, prime with 97% zinc primer, prime with red oxide primer, then topcoat. The topcoat can be dome to look like shiny bare steel, or black oxide, or anything at all. For my topcoats, I use Ditzler automotive acrylic enamels with the urethane hardener. They hold up for ten or more years on cars, and wil do as well on iron work if the prep is correct.