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Suggestions for metal finishes for fireplace screen
Jason -
Thursday, March 4, 2010 - 9:48pm
fireplace screen | mild steel | patina Hi All, I'm new to ArtMetal, however I'm very impressed by not only the works being created but the amount of support that members provide to one another. ![]() Thanks a lot Rich for you
Jason -
Friday, March 5, 2010 - 10:23am
Thanks a lot Rich for you speedy response. Just a couple follow-up questions if you would be so kind... I have used Birchwood Casey products on a number of projects but not on a project that will be exposed to extreme heat conditions (hot and cold), will it last? With regards to the high-temp silicone oil are you talking about motor oil? Jason ![]() The Birchwood Casey finishes
Rich Waugh -
Friday, March 5, 2010 - 5:26pm
The Birchwood Casey finishes I refer to are all chemical treatments that alter the surface chemistry of the steel and so are relatively permanent and not affected by heat (until you get it red hot, of course). Nope, not motor oil! Silicone oil like that used in high-temp paint finishes as a binder. Even silicone lubricating oil such as "Superlube" would work, but motor oils contain additives that are noxious and stinky. Renaissance Wax is expensive as all get out, but it works a treat in almost any circumstance short of direct flame. You can get it from Judy Berger at Blue Moon Press,among other places. As Will noted, the graphite finishes ("stove polish") will handle the heat, but they're a nasty mess that rubs off on everything within about eight and half feet or even further if the item in question will be ruined totally by the black smears. I hate the stuff. On nice pieces that have a patina requiring periodic maintenance, I simply provide a can of Renaissance Wax with the piece when I do the installation or delivery. I tell the customer how often to apply a coat and also tout the use of it for other things like silverware,furniture, etc. Usually, within a couple of months they're calling back to get more and I make a couple of bucks selling them a can and also get them back in the shop where I can maybe sell them some more ironwork. It's that good, really. Rich ![]() In my experience high
Will Jones -
Friday, March 5, 2010 - 3:16pm
In my experience high temperature paints and even many ordinary industrial matt paints hold up pretty well for firescreens and canopies/hoods but I'm talking freestanding sparkguard type screens that stand off from the fire a little....I know in the states you often have hook on or hinged screens that butt right up to the fire, which is a big ask for any coating to withstand longterm. Another popular and traditional finish for stoves, ranges and other fireplace accoutrements over here is graphite based polishes like "zebrite" and "zebo" available in any colour 'long as its black. (or there is a hard to find silver version called "zebracier") Filthy stuff but o.k. in the days when the maid dealt with all that stuff! As usual can't disagree with Rich....for a brown finish a bit of controlled rusting,stabilised and maintained with an oil or wax coating's a pretty good bet. Might burn off but won't be as yucky as a solvent based lacquer burning off! Will Jones ![]() fire screen finishes
ivan bailey -
Saturday, March 6, 2010 - 10:00am
Ivan Bailey ![]() Thanks a lot for all your
Jason -
Saturday, March 6, 2010 - 2:06pm
Thanks a lot for all your advice. I will post images when the project is completed. |
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Welcome to ArtMetal, Jason!
Welcome to ArtMetal, Jason!
The simplest brown patina for steel is basically rust. For centuries steel was allowed to rust, then lightly scuffed to remove the loose rust and allowed to rust some more. The process was repeated a number of times until a very fine, even layer of oxide was on the surface and that was then oiled to preserve it. The rust molecules being much larger than the iron molecules enable them to hold the oil and protect the surface from further oxidation. Look up "browning" in Google and you'll see a number of sources for chemicals to speed up the process. They're available from Birchwood Casey, Hoppe's, Herter's and others.
You have good reason to be concerned about the heat affecting a surface finish on a fireplace screen. Paints and clear coats aren't going to survive long. The best be I know of is to use a browning agent and then wipe the item down with a high-temp silicone oil. Provide some oil for the client to use periodically and it should hold up pretty well.
There are some high temp paints made that are advertised to withstand temperatures up to 1200F for brief periods and 1000F for sustained periods, but the colors are limited and I don't know if they can be intermixed. I have a new forge I painted with such paint from Dampney Company, called Thurmalox, and it has held up for the first couple of firings, at least. I'll tell you more in a year or so about long-term durability.
Rich