Gene, I believe this still looks the same some 7 months later.....I'd have to double check to be sure.

Sometimes I will spray a thing coat of Krylon over things that are patinated....or use Ren wax. . . but I think this is pretty stable. There is no flaky surface like happens with some verdigris type patinations. I think its safe to say its fairly stable.

I'll try to find this piece tonight and rephoto it so we can all get a feel for any change. :)

~Janice

Thanks Rich!

I didn't get a chance to root around for this piece last night but I am sure I'll get a chance this weekend...weeknights are hectic as a single mom!

~Janice

Rick.
I'm betting on liver of sulphur... Hmmm Brad

LOS = liver of sulphur. I understand it can be bought in chunk form or liquid - I buy it in chunk form. thanks for the compliment on my work. I really appreciate the feedback and encouragement!

~Janice

I used liver of sulphur in the past but have switched to lime sulphur from garden centers. It stays good longer. It is liquid and in a bottle so instead of lumps, use drops. No matter how hard I hammered the lid down on the little tins or how many plastic baggies I used, liver of sulphur goes bad on me.

marilyn

Never heard of that Marilyn. I have a little container of chunk LOS that I"v ehad for a few eyars - still works great. . . I can't imagine I'll need to buy any anytime soon as this seems to be the never ending container!
~Janice

I think that all you can do is to spray it with Krylon or some other clear coating. Just applyling wax will remove a lot of it. I don't like lacquer finishes because they can peel off in spots and prefer a wax that wears away in a more gradual fashion.

marilyn

I agree with Marilyn although I've used wax a bit on some verdigris type patina...rubbing very softly with a wax that is soft and I usually rub it between my hands first to get it really silky soft.... or I use krylon spray. If you use Krylon, from what I understand it should be used in VERY light coats in sweeping motion, then let drym, then another coat, let dry, etc - building up 5 or 6 or 10 coats. Whichever protection you use, it will change the look of the patina of course - it will change the way light reflects from it, so doing some test pieces and keeping them on hand is a good idea.
~Janice

Total agreement..many many light coats best approach I ve had. The pcs I'll post tomorrow use this approach. Brad

I added recent pics of the same piece. There is, of course, some difference in the actual photography. . . but you can get an idea of the change. The front of the piece has lost some color, some of the loss is seen as areas that are more yellowed than red..the blueish areas still look pretty good, though some of those have turned more to a grey. I think if there had been sealant on here it would still look pretty good. The back retained more of its color - it was probably backside down in the drawer and didn't get as much exposure to the air...?

~Janice

What type of wax do you use and how do you apply the wax ? In particular how do you get it into crevices and wipe it off.

Regarding the Krylon, is that clear spray paint ? If so, do you spray it over stone and / or gold accents ?

John

I like to use Renaissance wax which is clear. It takes very little to cover metal although I bought my can in a woodworkers store. Before I had this wax, I used Johnson's Paste floor wax. The amber color didn't seem to matter even on silver. I do not put it on stones nor do I use the sprays.

marilyn

I use various waxes - Renessance (sp) wax gets a lot of good feedback from people. I've been known to use candle wax...I basically take a bit of wax and work it in with my fingers...the heat of my hands helps work it in.

For krylon I use matte or clear depending on what look I want. BOTH will change the way light reflects off the piece so that needs to be taken into consideration. I spray prior to setting my stones. I don't think I'd have a problem spraying it on gold but I might consider taping those areas if I don't want them hit with it.

~Janice