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stainless finish
hautsteel -
Friday, August 14, 2009 - 10:57am
stainless steel finish Hello! I have a quick question: Dino ![]() I wasn't aware of the "Smith
hautsteel -
Saturday, August 15, 2009 - 11:44am
I wasn't aware of the "Smith Finish" but I will be sure and look into it. I am very familiar with Scotchbrite and 3m products from my bygone auto body days, so I think I would catch-on quickly. I also appreciate the stainless tips, as I am truly a stainless neophyte. Thanks again! Dino ![]() Greaseless compounds
Dick C -
Saturday, August 15, 2009 - 9:50am
If you use a stationary arbor, flex shaft, or something that would accept buffs, greaseless compounds applied to buffs can create a wide range of finishes. Formax supplies a variety of compounds and buffs. The greaseless compounds come in a range of grits from 60 to 600. I'm sure Scotchbrite and bristle discs would often more be convenient. I thought I'd mention this in case you weren't familiar with it. ![]() I was just told last night
hautsteel -
Saturday, August 15, 2009 - 11:47am
I was just told last night by an old machinist, that a drill press fitted with a wooden dowel and some valve grinding compound will do the trick ;-) Dino ![]() Dino, The finish your
Rich Waugh -
Sunday, August 16, 2009 - 12:14am
Dino, The finish your machinist friend was talking about is what is called "engine turned." Done very carefully, preferably on a milling machine, you get a beautiful fish scale appearance of overlapping concentric swirls, usually between 1/4" and 3/4" diameter ,depending no the size of the work. Very time consuming without a CNC machine, but a wonderful finish for machine tool parts. Rich ![]() Hi Rick, Yes, I have seen
hautsteel -
Sunday, August 16, 2009 - 10:34am
Hi Rick, Thank you guys for all the great info. - I appreciate it! Dino ![]() stainless finishes
Stephen Fitz-Gerald -
Sunday, August 16, 2009 - 1:26pm
Stephen Fitz-Gerald Hey Dino, ![]() Hello Stephen, Indeed we do
hautsteel -
Thursday, September 10, 2009 - 11:54am
Hello Stephen, ![]() swirls
visitor -
Saturday, August 22, 2009 - 2:28pm
I just use sanding pads of various grit with a cobalt pneumatic hand tool. experiment till you get what you like. You have to get a good rythm going when lifting up and touching back down on the metal to create a nice pattern. ![]() Thank you for the reply.
hautsteel -
Thursday, September 10, 2009 - 11:56am
Thank you for the reply. Sounds like there are no hard fast rules, but rather, a unique process derived from experimentation :-) ![]() Stainless Finish
visitor -
Monday, August 24, 2009 - 7:30pm
It was and I guess still is called Painting on Metal. If you are in the Washington Baltimore area go to the BMA and the Hirshorn Museums and you can see close up the works of Isamu Noguchi and David Smith. Especially the Smith in the Hirshorn Garden. In full sunlight the metal traceries are mind boggling. As far as their techinques check out some of the pix of these guys in their studios. You can see their tools. I use sandiing discs and wire brushes to achieve my effects. I don't think there is any formal training - but that's ok - experiment and see what is yours. ![]() I am not familiar with these
hautsteel -
Thursday, September 10, 2009 - 11:57am
I am not familiar with these artists - but will be sure to look them up. Thank you for the reply. ![]() Painting on Metal
Stephen Fitz-Gerald -
Thursday, September 10, 2009 - 7:27pm
Stephen Fitz-Gerald Dino, |
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Stainless finish
Stephen Fitz-Gerald
Hey dino,
Are you referring to a "Smith Finish"?(a la David Smith?
There are nearly an infinite number of what one might term swirl finishes out there,so it's hard to know without a photo which one you're speaking of.
I use Scotchbrite velcro backed pads by 3M company.
They are called CONDITIONING PADS and are sold through 3M's industrial devision. I use the 7" diameter ones with a backing pad,but they come in several other sizes.There are many cheap counterfeits but none that work as well as the real thing.
Remember with working stainless,the most important thing is to avoid contamination.I mark each pad with an SS so I know it has not been sullied by mildsteel. If you use a grinding disc or polishing pad on stainless that has previously been used on mild steel,it impregnates your stainless piece with microscopic bits of the mild steel which will likely rust in a couple of weeks if outside...
Don't even grind mild steel around stainless as the sparks can burn in and rust as well.
Here's a monolithic work I co-built with my father (his commission) that we did the swirl finish on stainless:
http://people.tribe.net/stephenfitz-gerald/photos/87efac17-a1a7-447a-b098-3b77b8527c1d