Gary, Some of my pieces are cut using an electric scroll saw or sabersaw as well. I lay my piece on a 2" thick piece of Styrofoam, thick enough to keep the blade from hitting the table top. Keep shifting the piece your cutting around on the Styrofoam so the shape your cutting doesn't fall out of the foam, your Styrofoam will last longer. On other pieces I use a hand held plasma cutter.
See www. ScoMo-Art.com

Gary,

I have a Delta scroll saw, the old Model 40-601 DC variable speed one that is no longer made, and it is the finest scroll saw ever made in my opinion. I've used it with jeweler's saw blades as fine as 4/0 and with heavier wood-cutting blades as well. After twenty-five years it is still in perfect condition. That said, it is NOT the best tool for cutting thin copper sheet.

24 gauge copper is so easy to cut with shears and so quick to clean up the edges with a flap wheel in a die grinder that using a scroll saw will no t save any time at all, I don't think.

A sabre saw, as mentioned, on styrofoam backing board, is a quick way to cut thin copper, with fairly clean edges. I get the 3" thick hard blue styrofoam used for insulating walk-in freezers and use blades that project only about 2" through the work so nothing ever drops out of the foam. A double-cut, hollow-ground veneer blade will cut thin copper like a hot knife through butter - until it gets dull, of course. It still leaves a slight burr on the top edge, though. No way to avoid that unless you go with placer (water-jet) cutting or laser, and only a certain type of laser will cut copper. The standard cutting laser reflects off copper and won't cut it.

Rich