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Metal to Metal Panel Glue?
Frank Castiglione -
Tuesday, September 7, 2010 - 11:13am
I'm doing some repairs on my new "beater"car and would like to glue panels over rust holes. Is there a panel type glue that would work. I know about the expensive 3m stuff but was looking for a much less expensive adhesive. I will be welding one edge only.The surface area is large where the panels overlap. ![]() Pop Rivets
visitor -
Tuesday, September 7, 2010 - 7:12pm
Hi Daedalus, ![]() I'll second that...
Frank Castiglione -
Tuesday, September 7, 2010 - 7:14pm
Hi,Daedalus, ![]() I have done some fairly
crquack -
Tuesday, September 7, 2010 - 7:03pm
I have done some fairly extensive trials of various commonly available glues. For steel I have found nothing better than JB Weld. How big is the area in question? My understanding is that both rivets and glues are used extensively in aircraft body construction. The rivets are there to prevent failure in peel mode, the glues take care of the rest. crquack ![]() Big Glue Surface
Frank Castiglione -
Tuesday, September 7, 2010 - 7:52pm
Hi Crquack, ![]() I tried the PL Premium some
crquack -
Wednesday, September 8, 2010 - 9:44pm
I tried the PL Premium some time ago. I did not like it for my applications because it came only in large quantities in the cartridges and also it was hard to work with - high viscosity. However, when it came to gluing stones together it was probably the best one I tried if you wanted to leave the stone structures outside and not have them disintegrate in the heat as happened regularly with epoxies. Beware: Here they started selling "PL Premium" glue in small bottles. I bought a bottle only to find that the stuff inside was nothing like the stuff in the cartridges! It was basically similar to Gorilla glue, Sumo and others which I find useless for anything other than wood-to-wood application (for which there are better glues anyway). Having said that I would be interested to know how you fare with the PL Premium in your application so keep us posted. crquack ![]() Frank- How about concrete?
Rob Sigafoos -
Wednesday, September 8, 2010 - 5:49am
Frank- ![]() Concrete car
Daedalus -
Wednesday, September 8, 2010 - 6:04am
I`ll bet he didn`t worry about fender benders or where he parked it either. In theory there is no difference between theory and practice. ![]() R E S P E C T
Frank Castiglione -
Wednesday, September 8, 2010 - 7:35am
Hi Daedalus, ![]() Good Chuckle,Thanks
Frank Castiglione -
Wednesday, September 8, 2010 - 7:31am
Hi Rob, ![]() For that particular
bigfootnampa -
Wednesday, September 8, 2010 - 6:51am
For that particular application you could use urethane foam. It would fill the voids and be waterproof yet very light. It also makes decent glue... gorilla glue is a very slight-foaming version. I have used it in door frames in basements where there was poor connection to the rough opening (due to it being cement or cinder block) with excellent success. You can buy it in small cans at any of the home stores... make sure that you get the urethane version though NOT the latex foam. ![]() I did a friend's old Buick
Rich Waugh -
Wednesday, September 8, 2010 - 8:45am
I did a friend's old Buick many years ago that much the same issue. For that one, I just took a piece of 22 gauge Galvanneal and welded it in all the way around the edge. That was in a time and place when I didn't have access to a MIG gun so I used oxy/acetylene and it still only took me about an hour to weld it all. After welding I did a bit of shaping and grinding and then painted it. It wasn't perfect, but the car was a beater. That was back before they had developed the more modern adhesives. These days I'd probably do it the same way, only because I know how to do that and I'm not that enamored of gluing metal together. My weird... (grin) Rich ![]() Patch
Frank Castiglione -
Friday, September 10, 2010 - 7:54pm
I cleaned out the really bad stuff. The rocker patch is glued with PL Premium and the bottom edge is welded to the friction weld seem. I covered the weld edge with PL Premium and used the glue to caulk the edged of the patch along its entire perimeter to seal it. I had to pull some trim away and instead of using the screws that pulled out of the rotted metal I glued everything. Every thing got a coat of Rustoleum rusty metal paint.I'm not afraid to jack the car up now. On to the right front rocker. ![]() Do you do any stress testing
crquack -
Friday, September 10, 2010 - 7:57pm
Do you do any stress testing of the joints? crquack ![]() adhesive
Stephen Fitz-Gerald -
Saturday, September 11, 2010 - 12:14am
Stephen Fitz-Gerald ![]() Hi Stephen, This is a
Frank Castiglione -
Saturday, September 11, 2010 - 6:24am
Hi Stephen, ![]() I have to disagree about the
bigfootnampa -
Saturday, September 11, 2010 - 10:24pm
I have to disagree about the foam. Closed cell foams do NOT soak up moisture. Open cell foams are different. Urethane foam (which is closed cell) I have used to seal leaks in walls and roofs and it will not soak up water even after months of immersion. On the contrary, urethane foam will deny moisture any entry to cavities. It also glues itself to the interior walls of any cavity thus sealing out any condensation as well as any actual water. The stuff is very UNlike a sponge. It is particularly useful for cavities where the interiors cannot be accessed to sand prime and paint and would otherwise be fully vulnerable to the ravages of moisture. Through even a small hole you can inject it and by drilling a small exit hole opposite you can completely fill the void in a way that no other approach can achieve and for a pretty reasonable price besides. Just take as example the small panel you have just overlayed... I imagine that not all of your welds are watertight and that given the proximity to water that such panels frequently encounter it seems likely that some amounts of water will find their way into the void where they will evaporate and recondense until a good percentage of their water content has had a chance to convert to rust by reacting with the steel. If that same void were filled with urethane foam those small pinhole and minor crack leaks would be sealed and the only moisture attack possible would be from the exterior (which hopefully would be thwarted by the presence of primer and paint). Whomever told you that it was a real bad idea has given you real bad advice and I urge you to test it for yourself. The one caveat is that these foams are not very heat resistant and so all welding in the area should be completed before injecting the foam. ![]() I grab one end and pull at
crquack -
Saturday, September 11, 2010 - 9:40pm
I grab one end and pull at the other :-) crquack ![]() concrete car floats to foam boat
nick such -
Sunday, September 19, 2010 - 3:07am
nick such ![]() No Foam for the Blue Hair Special
Frank Castiglione -
Sunday, September 19, 2010 - 9:27am
Hi Nick, ![]() More Holes
Frank Castiglione -
Monday, October 4, 2010 - 7:38am
Found water in the trunk and corrected a mis-shaped area from a not perfect accident repair by applying silicone caulk. Then when I took out the carpet and other sound proofing felt material to dry, I found a whopping hole in the inner fender. ![]() Looking good, Frank - before
Rich Waugh -
Monday, October 4, 2010 - 7:55am
Looking good, Frank - before long you'll have a second career! Rich ![]() The Thick of It...
Frank Castiglione -
Monday, October 4, 2010 - 9:50am
Thanks Rich, ![]() Move down here to the Virgin
Rich Waugh -
Monday, October 4, 2010 - 2:02pm
Move down here to the Virgin Islands, Frank - all the seats are warm. (grin) Rich ![]() Hey Frank, didn`t know
NELSON -
Tuesday, October 5, 2010 - 8:37am
Hey Frank, didn`t know about the salt ally, oh well that makes all the more fun and challenging I guess, as the salt is hygroscopic. Probably the best time to do it would have been in the summer when there`s a low relative humidity, but what the heck, you don`t want the beater to last another 40 years more, do you ? Ciao. ![]() Hey Nelson! It IS summer
Rich Waugh -
Tuesday, October 5, 2010 - 9:42am
Hey Nelson! It IS summer here in the Northern Hemisphere. (grin) Rich ![]() Color Season
Frank Castiglione -
Tuesday, October 5, 2010 - 5:54pm
Hi Rich & Nelson, ![]() Nice colors, Frank. Late
Rich Waugh -
Wednesday, October 6, 2010 - 12:23pm
Nice colors, Frank. Late Summer and early Fall are great times of year up there. I wouldn't want to be yooper during the winter or the early summer with all the black flies, but you do get some beautiful weather at other times. Enjoy it while you can! Rich |
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Use pop-rivets
If it`s a beater then use pop rivets to hold the panel in place.After you weld,drill the rivets out and plug weld the holes.You could always just leave them in place for a industrial look too. ;^)
In theory there is no difference between theory and practice.
In practice there is.