Coke furnace

Fingust - Sunday, January 18, 2009 - 7:59am

Hello,

I'm planning to build a coke furnace at home but I cannot find any good plans on the internet, does anyone have a coke furnace at home and would be willing of sharing a photo of it or even better a direct plan.? I would be using it to heat metal - binding iron to make some tools for casting. The furnace would be perfect if it look something like this: http://www.tamabi.ac.jp/kougei/equipment/img/metal/04/image-5.jpg

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Coke furnace

Lenny - Monday, January 19, 2009 - 8:17am

Sorry by my ignorance but I can´t see how can I upload some photo

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looks like an updraft, there

Lawrence Parramore - Monday, January 19, 2009 - 9:59am

looks like an updraft, there are probably some plans on the web, just look up Blacksmiths Forums, there are quite a few different ones I believe.

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HOME COKE FURNACE FUEL

visitor - Sunday, March 15, 2009 - 8:33am

WHERE WOULD YOU GET THE FUEL FOR THE COKE FURNACE? THERE ARE VERY FEW COKE MAKING OPERATIONS IN NORTH AMERICA STILL STANDING AND NONE ARE BEING BUILT BECAUSE OF EPA REGULATIONS.

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Try checking out another

Bob Wilkerson - Friday, March 20, 2009 - 11:03pm

Try checking out another forum called I Forge Iron. There are several sets of forge building discussions there. As for Coke you are not going to need 5 tons. Chances are you can find a blacksmith in the area who knows of a source.

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THE BASICS IM TAKING A 50

visitor - Friday, January 15, 2010 - 9:36pm

THE BASICS

IM TAKING A 50 GALLON DRUM, AND CUT IT IN HALF MAKING A TOP AND BOTTOM.

THE BOTTOM AND THE TOP WILL HAVE A QUARTER INCH STEEL PLATE. THE CENTER PLATE WILL BE FLAT; HOWEVER IT SUSPEND IN THE DRUM AND TWO PLATES ON THE LEFT AND RIGHT WILL HAVE A SEAM WELDED ON BOTH SIDES. THERE WILL ALSO BE A WELD WHERE THE DRUM WAS CUT. THAT'S THE EASY PART. THE HARD PART IS THAT THERE WILL BE BLACK IRON PIPES THAT WILL BE RAN THROUGH THE BOTTOM PART OF THE DRUM. THERE WILL BE ONE PIPE RAN INTO THE EMPTY SPACE BETWEEN THE PLATE AND THE DRUM. ONCE THE PIPE ENTERS THE DRUM IT WILL BE SPLIT IN THE THREE PIPES. AFTER THE PIPE IS SPLIT ONE PIPE WILL RUN DOWN THE CENTER AND HOLES WILL BE CUT IN THE PLATE AND ENTER THE FURNACE. THE OTHER TWO PIPES WILL RUN ON EITHER SIDE OF THE DRUM AND LIKE THE CENTER PIPE, THERE WILL HOLES CUT IN THE PLATES. ONCE THIS OCCURS THE EMPTY SPACE WILL BE FILLED WITH COKE IN ORDER TO KEEP THE HEAT IN THE BLAST AREA, THIS WILL ALLOW LONGER LIFE OF THE DRUM. IF THIS AREA IS NOT INSULATED THE DRUM WILL BECOME HARD AND VERY BRITTLE. THEREFORE THE COKE IS NECESSARY IN ORDER TO MAINTAIN A LONGER LIFE. THE PIPES WILL BE RUNNING OXYGEN TO THE FURNACE AREA AND WILL IGNITE ONCE IT COMES IN CONTACT WITH BURNING WOOD, CREATING A MUCH HOTTER BLAST THAT WOOD ALONE. AS PERCUSSION THE SEALS WILL BE CHECKED FOR LEAKS FROM THE CYLINDER OF OXYGEN, THE REGULATOR WHICH CONTROLS THE AMOUNT OF OXYGEN THEREFORE CONTROLLING THE TEMP. OF THE FURNACE. THE METHOD OF CHECKING THE SEALS IS SIMPLE I WILL COMPLETELY SURROUNDED WITH DAWN SOAP IF IT BUBBLES THEN THERE IS A LEAK IF NO BUBBLES SEALS ARE SEALS. THERE WILL ALSO BE A SHUT OF VALVE RIGHT BEFORE THE PIPE ENTERS THE DRUM.

THERE WILL ALSO BE A TOP TO THE FURNACE IN ORDER TO HAVE A CONTROLLED TEMP. THE TEMPS. WILL RANGE FROM 2,500 F FOR THE ANNEALING PROCESS AND THE SHAPING OF THE METAL. THE TEMP. WILL ALSO BE RANGING TEMPS. TO 4,250 FOR THE HARDING OF THE STEAL. I WILL ALSO HAVE AN OIL BATH FOR THE HARDING PROCESS TO BE COMPLETE. FINALLY, THE TOP WILL ALSO BE PLATE AND FILLED WITH COKE AGAIN TO PROTECT THE OUTER SHELL OF THE DRUM.

LASTLY THE BOTTOM OF THE FURNACE WILL WELDED TO THE FRAME WITH STEAL WHEELS IN ORDER TO MAKE MOBILE SO WEATHERING WILL NOT OCCUR. IT WILL PLACED IN A SAFE PLACE TO KEEP IN GOOD USE, AND SO THEFT DOES NOT OCCUR.

IF YOU USE COKE IT WILL BE MORE THAN LIKLEY WET LIKE 10% H20

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Visitor, I can't really

Rich Waugh - Saturday, January 16, 2010 - 12:58am

Visitor,

I can't really figure out what it is you're building with that drum arrangement, (very hard to read all caps), but I did note a couple of things that concern me more than a little bit.

You speak of injecting an oxygen blast into a wood fire, as near as I can tell, and talk of working steel at temperatures of 2,500 (presumably Fahrenheit) and hardening it at 4,250. Sorry to burst your bubble, but 2500 F will burn steel and 4250 will boil it to vapor. Steel is generally forged at temps between 1800 and 2000F and the heat (A3 transformation point, also called the Curie point sometimes) for hardening is actually lower than that, somewhere between 1450 and 1650F depending on the carbon content of the steel.

At the temperatures you're speaking of, you will need the most advanced alumina refractories developed for aerospace insulation or your entire drum will become first incandescent and shortly thereafter a thing of memory only. Pumping oxygen into that hot coke will generate temperatures like you'd find in a rocket engine, with disastrous results.

In the interest of safety you may want to re-think this a bit before you proceed much further.

Rich

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