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Wiring suggestions/Design for Chandelier
Eric and Debra -
Wednesday, December 6, 2006 - 7:36pm
Blacksmithing We are getting ready to bid a job with a wall mounted "chandelier." The metal wraps around glass orbs at the end. They want them to taper, but also say they want them hollow to accept the wiring. What are some ways any of you have designed lighting pieces with regards to wiring and hiding it, etc. Deb ![]() Chandelier
Eric and Debra -
Wednesday, December 6, 2006 - 10:31pm
That actually helps tremendously! The initial design they talked about was with tubing, though I do think that solid stock turns out so much prettier. I think I will experiment a little and see what happens and decide which way I would prefer to recommend to the customer. Thanks a bunch! Debra ![]() Or if your bars taper down
Lynda Metcalfe -
Thursday, December 7, 2006 - 2:16pm
Or if your bars taper down really fine you could use a combo of QQ's 2 methods above and make the fine tapers on the end out of solid round, weld them into the end of the tapered tube and grind and hammer the weld area till it disappears. Then you can hide the wire in the tube and have it come out a hole at the narrow end and follow the rest of the arm to the end. My husband does something like this on some stands he makes for a glass blower friend of ours and they look great. Lynda Metcalfe Roush Forge & Design www.metcalferoush.com Lynda Metcalfe Jewelry www.lyndametcalfe.com ![]() bpfink / Depending on what
bpfink -
Sunday, December 10, 2006 - 9:58am
bpfink / Depending on what media you want to use, here is one option I've used successfully with many variations. While most of my work is via casting bronze, it would work for forging as well. Take a pipe to start with, I usually use copper and find a small size such as 1/4 inch ID or whatever size needed for the wire size with a little play left. Then fill it with a fine graded sand and cap the ends. Do the forging, bending, twisting or whatever (In my case it is bent and shaped and then coated with the wax that is to be the final cast form) and proceed to get it to it's final end. When done (in my case cast into metal which is a whole long process here so am omitting that part), take a fine plastic, flexible tube, hook it to an air compressed line and insert it in the tube while it back blows out all the sand. I use a tube that is gotten from the throw outs of a hospital used for a drip line. Doing this takes only a minute, will go around any curves or twists and makes for a hollowed line easy to wire when done. To put the wire or wires in, pull don't push. First take a fine strong string (such as a fishing line) and put a knot with a small cotton wad at the end. Insert it in the tube and then either blow it through or suck it through using a vacumn cleaner. This gives you a line that can pull the wires. I have used this for runs from 7 feet in the case of sculpture castings, to 250 feet in the case of underground electrical conduit buried in the yard of a new home where the string first pulled the ends of a rope which then pulled the very stiff wire runs. Many steps omitted here, but maybe you get the point. Hope it helps. bpfink
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![]() If it were me I would sleep
ChrisG -
Sunday, December 10, 2006 - 1:33pm
If it were me I would sleep better(as artist or patron) if the metal frame was grounded, a simple step often neglected on metal lamps. ![]() Video on Forging Tubing
QuiQue -
Thursday, December 21, 2006 - 4:07pm
I just finished the first part of my chandelier project and posted a video of forging tubing on YouTube. Check out "The Marci Chandelier - Hot Forging Tubing." |
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I've done this two different
I've done this two different ways. The first was forging the chandelier arms out of solid stock and then hiding the wire on the outside by gluing it on the opposite side of where it was going to be viewed. This meant having to drill small holes at different curves and passing the wire through to the back side.
A better solution is to forge heavy wall tubing lightly as to not to crimp it. This can be done by not heating past a dull red heat and striking fast, light blows on the tubing. You can actually taper the tubing or simply texturing it so that it looks hand forged.
I hope that I'm answering your question and not that I am way off track with the answer.