Coat 2-5 on a wax finish?

Hi all, time to start putting the wax finish on the railing I'm working on. I understand the first coat recipe and application just fine, but am a little confused on the subsequent coats done cold. Do I use the same wax mixture that i used when hot(bees wax, linseed oil, and thinner) or do i just use the wax? If its just the wax, how do I soften it up to apply it? The wax i have is in bricks. Finally, how long do I have to wait to buff the cold wax after application?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Jake


eligius1427's picture

Just looked into Butchers

Just looked into Butchers Bowling Alley Paste wax. Is this something I can use for the cold wax coats?

Jake Balcom
Mettle Design
Lincoln, NE


warren's picture

Good stuff

Jake,
Glad that you are looking into the Butchers wax. From past experience I never liked the bees wax. Was always sticky and collected too much dust in the wax..........hard to buff out also when cold.

The Butchers wax will work cold. Not sure how many little cracks and such that you have to work around. I use a round car parts cleaning brush, bristles let you work in the cracks and they do not shed. You can also take a heat gun or hair dryer and heat the wax once is on to flow around a little too. I have also thinned with mineral spirits and sprayed with a solvent sprayer.

To buff to a luster if desired a good horse hair shoe polish brush works the best.

warren
http://www.metalrecipes.com


eligius1427's picture

Thanks for getting back to

Thanks for getting back to me warren, do you suggest the butchers wax for all of the coats or just the cold coats?

Jake Balcom
Mettle Design
Lincoln, NE


visitor's picture

Hi Warren, just noticed that

Hi Warren, just noticed that you had already answered this question in a previous post. Sorry for the reapeat.

Jake


visitor's picture

wax applications

Near the end of this site it tells all about how to use, prepare and apply to metals.
Use a Microcrystalene cell structure wax like Bees wax, Victory (a petroleum product) or Carnuba.
Do not add linseed oil, it only destroys the cell structure and makes it sticky though it will harden with time if you used Boiled Linseed oil or Japan drier with it. I avoid both for this. Not a plus additive.
Heat the wax to a cool liquid so you can pour it into a paint thinner (NOT turpentine... get the cheapest synthetic paint thinner) and make a batch about as thin as milk. Apply it warm to your metal , let air dry to evaporate the thinner and then buff.
More details at this site.

http://www.artmetal.com/brambush/forum/bramyak1/messages/110.html


SteelyJan's picture

Great New Info

Thank you for this waxing information.....never heard of using wax that way...will try it...sounds good. We all appreciate the sharing of ideas and know-how!!! SteelyJan