Making the Diamond Spangled Bangle -- 3

Dick C - Sunday, October 11, 2009 - 1:36am

Setting in the stones.

To flush set small round stones I'll start with a hole slightly smaller than the diameter of the stone. Then create a "seat" for the stone with a bearing bur the same size as or slightly smaller than the stone. Burnishers can be made from old burs held in a pin vise. I burnish with the side of the tip, moving it in a side to side motion, exerting enough pressure to upset the edge and move metal down toward the crown of the stone. Smaller diameters will move more metal and are useful for getting a stone tight, larger diameters might leave a smoother surface. It can be useful to have a couple diameters at hand.

Flush Setting (side)

Working with the burnisher at too steep an angle will move metal more up and away instead of down. Starting at a shallower angle will get the metal started moving down and in.

Flush Setting (top)

I go easy, initially, on the first side to avoid raising the opposite side of the stone. Work one side, then the opposite, then back again, until the stone is secured and level.

Soldering the spring and button unit to the tongue base.

This piece has a traditional style box clasp. On the tongue side I like to use two pieces -- a sturdy base with with a lighter, 18 karat white spring. There will also be a fold-under safety clasp. The little piece I had flattened for the button was close enough to size that I decided to finish shaping it after it was attached.

Gold and Diamond Bangle

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Great Demo! Thanks for

Fred Zweig - Sunday, October 11, 2009 - 8:18am

Great Demo! Thanks for showing us the sequence.

Fred

Fred Zweig
Metalsmith

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Excellento

Frank Castiglione - Sunday, October 11, 2009 - 9:44am

I'll second that... Thanks Dick.
Frank

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Nice posts

warren - Sunday, October 11, 2009 - 2:31pm

Dick, Wow you out did yourself on these posts. Excellent information, the pictures are great and the drawings are super pro. Nice to see some good information posted here. I probably will never use any of it but great to see how another artist works.

www Metalrecipes -- heat and beat to the desired shape, repeat as necessary.
warren

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Thanks guys. I had intended

visitor - Sunday, October 11, 2009 - 3:31pm

Thanks guys. I had intended a simpler post, but ... you know how it goes.

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thank you for the informative post!

visitor - Sunday, October 11, 2009 - 7:27pm

Hi,
here's a gal seconding the guys---I always appreciate seeing the details of how someone else makes their work.
Cynthia
www.cynthiaeid.com

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Since I had some photos...

Dick C - Monday, October 12, 2009 - 3:44pm

Thanks, Cynthia. Since I had some photos I figured it was my turn to share.

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Nice Demo! You've provided

Jamie Santellano - Tuesday, October 13, 2009 - 9:09pm

Nice Demo! You've provided a great visual! I've been learning how to set stone...nothing this fancy, but it's nice to see the process. I struggled a bit with my first setting.
I'll be in touch...I may need some help with my current project.

Congrats on this one!

Jamie Santellano

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Thanks, Jamie. That first

Dick C - Wednesday, October 14, 2009 - 8:47am

Thanks, Jamie. That first setting is probably the toughest -- and it's behind you.

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Ummmm,

Jman - Wednesday, October 14, 2009 - 1:53am

Wow... Impressive piece of work ! I've seen very similar tutorials in some of my Jewelry books regarding the setting of stones and they are simple enough to understand but VERY, VERY difficult to execute ! I tried to set a few ZIRCONS and well, let's just say... it didn't look 'anything' like yours :(

I have to state that your work is pretty bloody phenomenal ! So Phenomenal in fact, that I just returned from your WebSite not more than about 30 minutes ago looking and marveling at your creations.

Unfortunately for ME, I made the mistake of 'showing my wife' your amazing work... The instant she drew in her breath, I knew that I was freakin' DOOMED ! It looks like 'My Christmas Plans' have 'been' changed...' So much for my 'renovated' en-suite ! She already has 3 ITEMS picked out...SO FAR !

Uh, anyway... my 'Chest Pain' is slowly subsiding now, but either way, I have a feeling I'll be in touch rather soon for a Bracelet, or "THREE"...

(I better be able to FIT a NEW PLASMA cutter in the MIX somewhere or I'm gonna be P-O-'d !!)

:) heh, heh...

Cheers Dick,

/Jman....

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Email me, Jman, and I'll get

Dick C - Wednesday, October 14, 2009 - 8:58am

Email me, Jman, and I'll get your wife my direct number!

Plasma cutters are overrated. Using a hammer and chisel on steel is much better exercise. Good for that heart! ;)

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Amazing series on jewelry

QuiQue - Monday, October 19, 2009 - 3:42pm

Amazing series on jewelry design and making! Your illustrations and written word are top notch.

Thank you for sharing Dick! This is the kind of posts that I really believe are useful to the ArtMetal community. It helps the community and interested visitors understand the process of making fine art.

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