I'm not saying this is *the* answer, but after a year of outdoor storage, it sounds like the O-ring in your torch handle is likely dried up and leaking. Take off the torch tip and look at the black, rubber O-ring around the inside/base. I bet it is all dried, crusty and cracked. And if you don't see one at all, that's even worse. You can get them at the welding store. Very cheap but very essential.

Be careful with that rig, and be careful about storing it in your garage or anywhere indoors. Do you have a hot water heater or furnace with a pilot light? A leaky hose/tank/valve + a pilot light can be a big, big problem - as in: major house fire. In this case "be careful" means please don't do it. I'm not exaggerating in the least to tell you that I walked into my shop TONIGHT and was overpowered with the smell of propane that was leaking from a tank. Leaky fuel cylinders DO happen. I'm not some stuffy-mr-safety-guy. I break more rules than I follow, but this is fairly hi-risk stuff if you don't take certain precautions.

It sounds like this is an acetylene/air torch with no second (oxygen) tank, but that's not 100% clear... correct?

Also, Acetylene is very corrosive to common rubber so get that O-ring at a welding store, and make sure it is "fuel safe" or whatever they call it. An O-ring from the hardware store will likely fail very quickly and you'll be back where you started - if this is indeed the actual problem.

AFTER all this... a photo or two of your setup will make it very easy to help us give you additional usage/safety info on what is the exact nature of that brass valse you described. It could be fuel pressure or fuel/air mix. hard to say without seeing it. Good luck, be safe, and welcome to the forum!

Deb,

Welcome to ArtMetal!

Okay, you seem to have an air/acetylene torch. You're in Arizona where the UV and ozone levels are higher than most other places so rubber deterioration is very likely. Another thing is the dirt - that may the result of a mud dauber wasp having built a nest in your torch head, or debris from spiders. The torch needs to be taken completely apart, cleaned properly and reassembled with new rubber seals.

The regulator knob is not an air adjustment, it is the gas pressure adjustment. The torch naturally aspirates the air it needs - the higher the gas pressure, the faster the gas flow and thus the more air it pulls in by venturi action. You should start out with the knob adjusted so that you show about 5 psi on the gauge for a medium sized torch tip and adjust it up or down until the flame characteristic is right. (Obviously, you can't do this until the torch has been cleaned and rebuilt.)

If the place you bought the torch isn't helpful, then take it to a welding supply house. Those guys should know how to help you out and you don't want just any nitwit to tear down a torch; they can be dangerous if not done properly. If you do take the torch to a shop for examination, be sure to take the whole setup - torch, hose and regulator.

You can help yourself if you look online for the manufacturer of the torch and download the proper manual for it. Then red the manual thoroughly while you have the torch in front of you so you can match the manual with reality until it is all familiar to you. You may find that the manual tells you haw to clean and maintain the torch and you won't need to take it anywhere, or you may find that you'd feel more comfortable if you had a professional do it for you. One other possible source of information may be the community college - often they have jewelry classes with instructors that are familiar with torches and could help you out.

Based on the symptoms you've described, you should not attempt to use that torch until it has been properly cleaned and checked out. Acetylene is a highly flammable and potentially explosive gas if not handled properly, or if used in malfunctioning equipment.

When you pursue a trade or craft that employs torches, it really pays to get on good terms with your local welding supply house. Most of them offer not only sales and supply, but also torch and regulator rebuilding, workshops, seminars and open houses where you can meet others with your same interests. They're a great resource in other words.

Good luck with it and let us know how it comes out. I look forward to seeing some pictures of your work after you get things sorted out and can get some work done.

Rich

Daedalus makes some very good points about fuel gas safety.

You must check your setup for leaks every time you assemble it and periodically thereafter as things can change with temperature, humidity, movement, etc. Learn how to do it properly and do it religiously.

As he noted, electric contacts can create sufficient spark to ignite fuel/air mixes in the right proportion. One VERY important thing to know is that acetylene will ignite in almost any concentration from 1% to 99%.

I too, store acetylene indoors. Safely. I will NOT store propane indoors, however. It is heavier than air and can pool in low areas until sufficient concentration is reach to allow ignition. Propane is stored outdoors and piped in through black iron pipe as per building codes.

If you should have a fire in your home, the fire marshal/inspector will look for the cause. They have two favorites - faulty wiring and gas leaks. If a fuel gas cylinder is discovered in the ruins of the fire, guess which one they'll pick? Three will get you five that your homeowner's insurance carrier will determine that the presence of that cylinder constitutes negligence on your part and deny your claim. Something to keep in mind, and weigh as one factor in your decision as to whether or not you store it inside. It's a good idea to read your insurance policy carefully. I don't recommend that you ask your insurance agent since that will likely result in, at a minimum, a note in your file that you asked about doing something they consider unsafe. Worse, they could simply cancel your coverage based on that question.

Life is an uncertain and risky proposition at its best. Know what your risks are and act accordingly. Life without risk is pretty bland, but all risk and no reward makes Johnny a dead boy. :-)

Rich

I want to thank all of you for your responses. I took every thing to heart and used caution and did not try to light the torch again. I want to let you know that the torch is now working like new. I had finally found the literature that came with the torch and sat down Saturday afternoon and read it thoroughly. Then I took the torch apart and using a fluffy soft pipe cleaner proceeded to clean out the torch tip and any other hole I saw. I removed a fair amt. of debris. I then carefully reassembled the torch handle and made sure all the nuts were wrench tight that were supposed to be according to the manual. I located a welding shop today and drove there with my tank. After hearing what I had to say the guy wanted to light the torch and see what happens. Lo and behold...perfect flame! No fire erupting from the lock screw. He stood there with the flint lighter striking all around the connections on the handle and no leaks! I'm not so sure he was exercising good sense and told him so. He looked at the O ring and said he thinks the dirt and what not, was causing the problem. He answered questions I had concerning the regulator and he gave me a quick review of the regulator valve and now I think I'm set to go. I lit it myself after getting home and it worked fine.
Again, thanks to all of you. I will take some pics of my bracelets and post them. Bought a new camera last night so I'm dying to try it out.
Happy metalworking to you all.
Deborah T