Hi crquack.

I did leave a comment the other day, and it just never showed up, so I thought I'd try again!

I etch on silver with PNP paper I get from Thompson Enamel. Indeed whatever you "see" on the transferred image will also etch into the metal. Is this what you're using? I use nail polish to go over areas I want completely black. I use the ferric chloride but also nitric acid- fast acting in 7 minutes. Dangerous stuff but keep it locked up and safe and use it outdoors or with a fan. Maybe your software needs tweaking so you can modify your image to remove the ugly striations, although they do add some interesting texture.

Good luck!

Omigosh this is like the 3rd time I've tried to respond! Crazy.

Anyway, I do a lot of etching and use PNP paper (iron-on resist) from Thompson Enamel. Is this what you're using? I use nail polish to cover over areas I want really black. But whatever is on the image transferred, is indeed what's etched, so maybe you could edit your image in the software you have so the striations don't show up. I use ferric chloride but also and mainly nitric acid- works quick and I keep it locked up.

Hope this helps and good luck.

-Dana

Thank you. I am distressed to see that there seems to be some difficulty in replying to my post - if fact there is a whole new thread out there now devoted to the topic of difficulty replying to me :-)

Is it something to do with the way I posted? If not, I am happy to read replies by private e-mail message or if a new thread can be started and identified as relevant to this topic.

Anyway:

Transferring the pattern is not a problem. I use the Staples paper as outlined in the link in my OP but I had tried others with essentially the same result.

I have tried fiddling with the printer setting but it will not allow me to do much and the resolution is pretty much set at 600 dpi.

However, motivated by your comments I looked again at the software issue. I examined the photographs again closely with the full resolution and magnification and I also dug up some prints I had from 10 years ago when I was using different software (Coreldraw vs. Inkscape I am using now)and a different printer.

It became obvious that the line pattern was not present 10 years ago. Furthermore, the line pattern present now is about 130 lines per inch, not 600. Also they are lines, not pixels as such.

I am not sure how to interpret this. Is this a function of the printer trying to reproduce half-tones? Is it an inherent function of Inkscape?

I tried photocopying one of the pattern sheets and the lines are not obvious on the copy as they are on the original. I have not got around to trying the transfer off the photocopy.

In what I do there are no grays: Only black and white. It would be really difficult to go over the whole pattern again and re-cover all the black areas with a re-touching medium (I find enamel hobby paints and a specific pen - Porcelaine - work best).

I guess the next step, assuming the photocopy transfer does not work, would be to have the pattern printed elsewhere (Staples) and then perhaps splash on a proper graphic program :-)

crquack

Hello crquack,

Perhaps you could scan the image into your computer and then modify the blackness/striations that way. I print directly to my laserjet so I avoid the "middleman" at the print shop- it helps quite a bit to get the best transfer possible.

Check to see that your matching resolution all the way threw. I use inkscape too. You can set different resolutions on the output files when you export. Also check if there is a contrast setting for your laser. Sorry I can't be more specific. I run a different printer and am under Linux.

As for a "proper" graphics program I use The GIMP
www.gimp.org
and inkscape. Inkscape is a vector graphics program, GIMP is raster graphics. Between the two you can do almost any thing.

Follow up:

I changed the export resolution dpi in the Inkscape. I exported the file as bmp (which, somehow, becomes png). I printed the file, scanned it and saved it as bmp.

Printing out the three different files opened by three different programs all yielded the same result, i.e faint lines at about 90 dpi.

I printed the file on my wife's printer (which, unfortunately, also happens to be HP1012) - same result.

Staples apparently cannot print out anything except pdf and jpg (strange, I thought, but that's what they told me).

I guess the next step is to put in a question to Hewlett Packard, look for a graphic printer shop within 100 km of here and try the photocopy. I have also thought about a couple of modification to the heat transfer technique to see if I can make the lines bleed into each other without bleeding into the numbers.

I guess if it was easy everyone would be doing it

crquack

Send me the original Inkscape file. I wonder if the scanner is part of the problem? Also send the scanned BMP.
tom@incertclevername.com
I have a HP 2600n to print it on, I also have an HP scanner. I will see if I can duplicate your problem and find a solution.

Try GIMP from www.gimp.org It is free open source. Very powerful program.

I looked over your files and they look good. The black is true black so no problems there. I printed on my HP2600n direct from inkscape and I think my printer would have the same problems in the final etching. The problem you are having is defiantly in the printer. What I don't know is what if any laser printer would work.

I wonder if this is a case where an inkjet would work better? Maybe find a friend who would let you try. I do not like inkjets but some times you have to compromise.

Another idea, do you know any one who does silk screening? Maybe silkscreening on a resist material would work better?

HPs are not known for their photo quality printing, especially on the low to medium priced printers. Try finding someone with an Epson photo quality or a professional digital photo printer. I had an Epson 1160 which eventually crapped out and got the HP counterpart as a gift. I get lines in the printouts all of the time, which never happened with the Epson. Better to borrow someone's first though and make sure.

Jake Balcom
Mettle Design
Lincoln, NE

Here is another follow-up:

I changed my heat source arrangements a bit and did a transfer using three different patterns: One printed by laser printer as before, one a photocopy of the said laser print, both of these transferred to paper, and finally one transferred to a common overhead transparency (I used these before all the time but had difficulty with consistent transfer).

All transferred fine. The transparency showed spots where the printer lines were clearly visible and those spots were retouched with the Porcelaine pen.

I etched all three today with a freshly made Edinburgh etch. I have never used Edinburgh etch before and was amazed at the speed with which the etching occurred - way faster than even concentrated Ferric Chloride at the same temperature. In fact in places the etch just blasted through the 0.006" brass.

Anyway, here are the results:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/27683124@N07/3967848238/in/set-72157622484352534/

Somehow the new heat application obliterates most of the lines on the transparency and those that remain are easily re-touched.

I shall have to confirm this result with other attempts but it seems that one is a step closer to solving the problem.

crquack