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Stainless steel forging
Chris Shea -
Wednesday, September 24, 2008 - 1:33pm
forging | stainless steel Hello all, I'm a new member. Professional smith for about 10 years. I'm considering a small forged railing project for an indoor pool (not submerged but it will get wet. If anyone has any advice for forging stainless steel and keeping its corrosion resistance in such an environment I'd be very grateful. Checked the archives and found some useful information already. I look forward to taking part in the discussions. Thanks, ![]() Chris, Sorry I didn't get to
Rich Waugh -
Sunday, September 28, 2008 - 11:30pm
Chris, Sorry I didn't get to this earlier, but I was busy having fun at the QuadStates blacksmithing conference this weekend. Too much going on. When forging stainless steel, it is important to do a "solution annealing" at the end of the forging. Bring the stainless up to about 1950 degrees Fahrenheit and hold it there for several minutes to get all the carbides back into solution. Then quench it to anneal and fix the new grain structure in place. This is a fairly sloppy description of the process, but it should work for you. If you want the piece to have a shiny stainless finish, I recommend getting it electropolished if you have access to such a facility where you are. If you don't, then pickle it in a 20% solution of citric acid in water at 140 degrees F for an hour or more to passivate the surface. This passivation should be done after any grinding/sanding, and such grinding should be done with wheels, discs and brushes that are dedicated for stainless only and are never used on regular steel which will contaminate them. ![]() forging stainless
visitor -
Wednesday, February 25, 2009 - 10:37pm
hello, |
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Stainless Steel Forging
You are in luck. We have several people here who are Very Good at forging S.S. Search for Guiseppe here on Art Metal and find some lovely stuff, indeed.
SmokyRick
Rick Crawford at Smoky Forge