ArtMetalsocial networking for the metal arts |
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Inside raising a ball
Chaz -
Thursday, January 21, 2010 - 4:11pm
Hey folks, ![]() Ok, this is a new way to
Chaz -
Friday, January 22, 2010 - 12:11pm
Ok, this is a new way to post replies than I have experienced on other sites, but here goes... My bad, I should have said I was doing two halves. Sorry. I will then TIG them together. Ok, now I guess I need to answer the other post under that post.......I guess. Like I said, this is a little different (I think) then say Metal Meet or the other sites I'm on. :) And I am much better at swinging a hammer then tappin keys. :) I guess I'll find out here shortly. :) Thanx Dan, I appreciate it!!! ![]() Chaz, Forget the swage block
Rich Waugh -
Friday, January 22, 2010 - 12:22am
Chaz, Forget the swage block - you'll be sinking, rather than raising, and thus thinning the metal. You need a compressive (upsetting) method, which is raising all the way. Here's the reason, as I figure it: If you want a 3" diameter hemisphere achieved by sinking, you start with a 3" diameter disc and stretch the hemisphere out of it. The 3" disc has an area of about 7 square inches and is .040" thick. That means you have a volume of roughly one quarter of a cubic inch of copper (1.5 x 1.5 x 3.14 x.04 = 0.283). The surface area of a 3" diameter hemisphere is double the area of the disc so the resulting thickness will be half of what you started with, or .020 inches. That's about 23 gauge - pretty thin for a 3" sphere and way thin for a 14" sphere. With raising, however, you would start with a disc about 4-1/2" diameter (0.636 cubic inches volume of copper). That's more than double the volume of the 3" disc so you would end up with a hemisphere slightly thicker than 18 gauge. To get a really good understanding of the raising process I recommend you get a copy of Rupert Feingold's book "Silversmithing" and study it. He describes it better than I can and has plenty of excellent illustrations. Rich ![]() Hi again
warren -
Friday, January 22, 2010 - 1:00pm
Chaz, www Metalrecipes -- heat and beat to the desired shape, repeat as necessary. ![]() Hey Warren, I guess you
Chaz -
Friday, January 22, 2010 - 1:14pm
Hey Warren, I don't see how to post pix on here but I'll look around. I may just put it on snapfish or photobucket if that is ok. But I'll see what I can do on here first. (please don't expect a "work of art"! :) LOL) Thanx for your site, your help and kind words!!! ![]() Ok, now to answer your post
Chaz -
Friday, January 22, 2010 - 1:00pm
Ok, now to answer your post Rich.... (I think this is how it's done):) Thanx for ALL the info!!! You say someone else can describe it better, but I followed you just fine. There's a lot to be said for that knowing me!! :) :) :) As far as the swage, I think you are right about sinking but if you do it specifically where you get "tucks" you are essentially shrinking the hemi and then stretching some in the middle. Correct????? At least that is my impression from what I learned from Metal Meeters as well as in the book Moving Metal. But you are right, there has to be a bit of stretching going on. I did start out with about a 4.5" disc of the 18ga. and ended up with the circumference of the hemi just a little over that. So I don't think it stretched too much. I TOTALLY appreciate ALL the help folks!!! Thank you!! ![]() copper balls
Gene Olson -
Friday, January 29, 2010 - 12:44pm
Chaz, Raising a copper ball over a ball is a piece of cake As warren said, your work speaks wonders. it should be no problem. Here is a bit about making one out of bronze. I used my pullmax some on it, but I've found that hand forming is just as fast though a bit more exercise. http://www.mettleworks.com/studio/globe/globular.html Gene Olson Sculptor Elk River, MN |
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copper balls
With 18g copper I think you will want to raise the two halves instead of sinking. Sinking could thin 18g a little too much. Of course this depends on the final application. If you were to sink against wood depressions you may end up around 22g, and 24g in small areas. With raising you can control the thickness much better, depending on how much experience you have. If you haven't done much raising thus far, and we know you are using a steel hammer, I might suggest making a hardwood stake to raise against; I hear they are wonderful. I learned to raise steel to steel, and have always done so, but errors do occur. You may be able to search the web and buy your 3'' ball ready made. The 14'' I'm not so sure. Good luck, Dan