ArtMetalsocial networking for the metal arts |
|
New member
Bubba-san -
Wednesday, March 9, 2011 - 2:58pm
Hello folks I am new member . I am a japanese swordsmith although I make all sorts of blades , I also make some Tamahagane for some of my blades . I am interested in learning how to do simple lost wax castings for small sword fittings that would be used to outfit a japanese sword . I usually handforge all my fittings but as I get older my eyesight is not what it used to be . So I thought I would try casting them ? I primarily work in copper , silver or alloys of both called shibuichi , sometimes a little brass . I have to be honest, I have little or no experience casting anything .I was hoping to learn . Hopefully I can learn here . I live in missouri Ozarks . I am retired military . I was hoping to find someone who could give me some hands on schooling but, I could not find anyone in this area. It is a pleasure to be part of your community . Best regards James J Bieler Bubba-san ![]() Hello Will,Thanks for the
Bubba-san -
Saturday, March 12, 2011 - 3:07pm
Hello Will, Thanks for the welcome , I will post some swords/ Knives and fittings soon. ![]() James, Welcome to ArtMetal!
Rich Waugh -
Wednesday, March 9, 2011 - 6:14pm
James, Welcome to ArtMetal! I look forward to seeing some of your work. I can help with some of your questions about lost wax casting I would think, and there are also several others here who do it regularly. It would help me to know what the approximate dimensions of the pieces you want to cast will be. That has a bearing on the exact method that will be the most appropriate for your particular needs. Also, do you have an oxy/acetylene torch? Or some other satisfactory method of melting metal? You'll also need some sort of a burnout kiln or furnace that will reach temperatures of 1200F or better. Let me know where you stand on those things and we'll take it from there. Rich Waugh ![]() casting
visitor -
Thursday, March 10, 2011 - 3:44pm
Thanks Rick I appreciate . I have all the equipent I need . was just purchased . I have burn out kiln Neycraft and cetrafuge , and all accesories . I primarily want to cast japanese sword parts . Menuki , fuchi / kashira ,Habaki, tsuba .I posted some of my handwork in the knife forum . Thanks for your help . I have several books on the subject and I understand the basics , I just dont have any practical experience. Thanks for your help James ![]() newbie
Stephen Fitz-Gerald -
Wednesday, March 9, 2011 - 10:47pm
Stephen Fitz-Gerald ![]() Yes stephen , I studied in
visitor -
Thursday, March 10, 2011 - 4:46pm
Yes stephen , I studied in japan . I lived in Yokosuka for 11 years on and off while serving in Vietnam . I mainly studied and was trained in traditional swordsmithing. For a while because of Japanese tradition , thats all I knew how to do was forge blades , had to learn how to make fittings and do my own polishing/ sayashi on my own. regards ...... James ![]() casting small sword parts
johndach -
Thursday, March 10, 2011 - 3:30pm
James, I want to welcome you to the group here and I will be watching for your pictures etc. of the pieces you want to cast to then discuss what/how you might do it. Size does make a difference as to what process might be used as has already been stated. I am mostly familiar with ceramic shell, sculptural casting and my wife (and I help her a lot here) is a long time investment caster for jewelry, Bruce Fink does his large sculptural castings this way too. All rather different processes to form a casting "void" but all need melted metal. Then there is also sand casting as the last method. I am sure you will get a lot of help with this. It may be cheapest to learn making the molds and waxes and sent them out to a caster rather than putting up the facility needed to do the casting yourself. Just a though........ John Dach ![]() Thank you for welcome I
Bubba-san -
Thursday, March 10, 2011 - 5:30pm
Thank you for welcome I certainly appreciate it , Not sure how to post attachments , this site is a little different from what I am used to ! best regards James ![]() James, Since you have the
Rich Waugh -
Thursday, March 10, 2011 - 5:30pm
James, Since you have the necessary equipment, the thing to do is try a couple of test pieces. If you have a book on casting, such as Sharr Choate's "Creative Casting" or another similar book, you can pretty much follow the directions. Be sure you have a scatter shield around the centrifuge! A load o of molten brass spraying ac4ross your midsection an ruin your whole weekend. If melting brass or other copper alloys, use adequate flux - borax is fine, a bit of boric acid added helps. Don't keep the metal at liquidus any longer than necessary as the alloying ingredients will start to boil off. The flux helps with this and will stay behind when you release the centrifuge arm and the metal is thrown into the flask. I strongly recommend the use of high-quality investment plaster. My preference is Kerr Satin-Cast. You'll get much better results than trying to use homemade recipes or cheap stuff. The price difference isn't all that great anyway. From this point, the best bet is probably for you to ask specific questions and I (or someone else) will answer them for you. Until the questions get specific I can't really know how much information you already have. ![]() Thanks Rich , I have a few
Bubba-san -
Thursday, March 10, 2011 - 6:22pm
![]() Nice looking sword
Rich Waugh -
Friday, March 11, 2011 - 9:02am
Nice looking sword furniture, James! You might want to get some good hard carving wax and make a few small tools (similar to dental tools) for carving it. You can get very exact details that way. The casting books you have should do you fine. I don't know if Rio Grande carries Satin Cast or not. Probably. If not, try Santa Fe Jeweler's Supply. Rich ![]() bronze
Bubba-san -
Saturday, March 12, 2011 - 1:23pm
Looking for some good bronze suitable for casting , I really dont know what kind to purchase as , there are so many types its really confusing ???? A jeweler friend of mind says: make sure no berylium , I do know its quite toxic. If anyone has some stock to sell I would be interested Thanks ...... James you may contact me at Berryman@socket.net or leave me PM ![]() James, I generally recommend
Rich Waugh -
Sunday, March 13, 2011 - 7:40am
James, I generally recommend silicon bronze for casting, since it is just copper and silicon and has no heavy metals. It is called "high silicon bronze", alloy C65500 or sometimes Everdur. One good source for it is Atlas Metals in Denver, CO., though there are other sources as well. One very nice feature of the high silicon bronze is that it can be TIG welded and will show no weld discoloration. Makes it easy to repair any small defects without any visible indication of a weld or repair. |
|
Hi, Can't help you with the
Hi,
Can't help you with the casting, as I'm more of a forger and fabricator, but welcome to artmetal, and I look forward to seeing some of your work here.
Will Jones