new hitty thing!

Blacksmithing

my latest hammer reworked from a 2(ish) lb drilling hammer, now a straight pein with a brand new handle. it should do well with my smaller 'chores' (term used loosely) hammer time!


Rich Waugh's picture

Good job, Greg. I'd suggest

Good job, Greg. I'd suggest that you might want to grind the pein with just a bit more rocker than it has now, though. As straight as it is you may find it hard to avoid getting dings in your work from the "corners."

For cross and straight pein hammers I've found that I prefer a considerably larger radius than most hammers come with. It seems that most manufacturers send them out with a pein that has a radius about the same as a fat pencil, but I've found that a radius about like a nickel or even a quarter is more effective at moving the metal and does a lot less marring and cold shuts. On a pein that is about 2" wide I grind it so it has about 3/32"of rocker and the corners are radiused to at least as big as a dime. That works well, for me at least - you may want to experiment a bit with that and discover what works best for you.

Hammer grinding is something that the books don't ever seem to cover adequately, but it is something that can make a huge difference in how effectively and cleanly you forge.

Making tools is fun, isn't it? I'd almost rather do that than anything else. :-)

Rich


Bigfoot's picture

Thanks! It was only about 6

Thanks!
It was only about 6 heats to make, but it does need more work on the pein. It is also a dedicated small work/ knifemaking hammer now, so I rounded the face out quite a bit. the pein has a radius of about a penny (maybe more) but you are right, that it does need more rocker after using it. That was kind annoying with the clean up work do remove the pein marks when i was 'working' with it. Plus, this has a big brother in the works, but the eye on that is pretty of center, but not enough so it won't work.
Thanks again for the tips,
Greg